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General Tech Clutch trouble

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Trevor Triumph

Jedi Knight
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My 1964 Spitfire has clutch issue. The transmission is a single rail with over drive. I thought the problem was hydraulic cylinder related. Annoying sounds putting the transmission in gear at a stop sign / signal, yet rather silent changes through the gears.
I've replaced the cylinder washers and even a new slave cylinder and master cylinder. Whem bleeding the sytem, the clutch pedal goes to the floor on only the first or second push. After that it stops maybe two inches from the floor and when the bleed nipple is open, the pedal goes to the floor. Rather like bleeding the brake pedal.

I'm wondering if the problem isn't in the cltuch assembly. I can push against the pin and with effort the clutch fork moves. I don't remeber when I replaced the clutch, but seems there are not a lot of miles since the last replacement, though probably several years.

I may have to resort to a pro, time is running out. We plan to attend Triumphest with this car.

Any thoughts?
 
is there any chance you have the disc in backwards or flipped. I did that once on a spitfire and the clutch stopped before it hit the floor. The reason being one end on the disc has a flange that if put in backwards hits the plate.
steve
 
I wonder fif that sort of thing could be a problem... Things woked well for quite a while, then there was trouble getting into first gear after a stop. Shifting through to fourth and OD went without ugly sounds. As I drove further the problem grew worse, until I couldn't shift into reverse or first. Now the car moves with the pedal as pushed as far as it will go.
 
If the clutch worked well for a while then I would say the problem is in the hydraulics. If you have replaced the master and the slave and bleed by gravity, perhaps the hose to the slave is folding in on itself. The system is simple and new parts usually fix it. If you rebuilt the hydraulics then perhaps the inners are shot, go with new.

steve
 
It sounds like a bleeding issue.

Try cracking the bleeder just 1/2 turn with a clear hose on the bleeder. Allow gravity to bleed the system until no bubbles are seen exiting the bleeder. Do not pump the pedal while bleeding, but ensure you have enough fluid in the reservoir.
 
I deleted a prior comment which was mistakenly based on TR3 components. I don't know much specific to Spits. But, this is a clutch actuation/hydraulic issue. The hard stop 2 inches above the floor is an indication that something is bottoming out. The fact that it goes to the floor on opening the bleeder likely indicates the bottoming is at or after the slave. May relate to binding of the throwout fork or some movement point in it. Is it possible that the piston in the master is reversed? I also notice in the catalog that there are two diameters for the slave. Did you get the right one when you did the master and slave replacement?
Bob
 
Looking more at the diagram in the Moss catalog, your symptoms might also be consistent with failure of the throwout fork fulcrum, items 38, 39, and 40 in the Moss diagram.
Bob
 
Yes, all the cylinder stuff seems to work properly. The transmission is coming out next Monday 8\14. In the meantime I get to clean / degrease stuff over and around the transmission. It should be ready for Triumphest in September.
 
At last the Spitfire will be on the road. The problem wasn't the master or slave cylinder. Apparently the "slop" in the pin the the slave cylinder pushes against had a lot of wear. The pin was worn, the throw out bearing carrier was worn, the clutch fork fulcrum pin was worn. I'm thihking there was probably one fourth of an inch free play. All those bits were replaced, and intitial test suggests success. Tomorrow comes the ultimate test.

T.T.
 
Interesting. If you follow the service manual, it tells you to take up all the play until you have a solid linkage, and then back off the specified amount. That accounts for normal wear. Over the years I think clutch adjustment eludes the most number of owners!?!
 
I know I have read about adjusting the clutch in TR series, but never with a Spitfure. I've read the Haynes manual several times - I've had the -transmission out several times due to ineptitude on my part. According to other sites, the hydrauloic clutch is "self-adjusting."
 
I know nothing about the Spitfire...except the clutch is obviously not self adjusting, LOL.
 
My wife had a 1971 spitfire in 1974 so it was a kind of a new car. I blew the motor racing around and pulled the motor and trans. When I put it back together with a new clutch, the clutch would not disengage. I did not know what to think because there were no adjustments on the slave or master. I called around and was told to get in and start driving and the pressure plate would wear down and fix itself. I did it and it worked--- sounds like your problem was the opposite. You had so much play from the non- adjustable parts being wore thin your clutch would not engage. Perhaps this is what they mean by self adjusting.

steve
 
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