• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Clutch through out fork misaligned

Share this page

D

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I am about to install an OD transmission in my TR3A and to speed things up a bit as well as insuring everything was good in the clutch area I got a new clutch operating shaft and clutch operating fork.

I added the extra screw to help prevent the locking pin from shearing. When I try to fit the release bearing assembly with the locating bolt in the gear box casting I found that the fork is offset by 1.5mm so I can not
install the release bearing assembly.
Release fork 1.jpg
I see my options as Call the place I got the parts.
Remove 1.5mm from one side of the fork.
Move the locating slot over 1.5mm.

Any other ideas?

David
 
Interesting. I have always had enough play that the fork will tap each side of the carrier as the rod slides back and forth. When you say “locating slot”, are you talking about the one for the fork or the one on the end of the shaft on the pax side? If it is the slot at the end of the shaft, then I consider that redundant anyway. I personally would have no problem leaving it out, as the fork will keep the rod centered.
 
Hello John

Yes I am referring to the bolt on the Pax side. I did wonder about the reason for it as the fork prevents the shaft from coming out. The spring on the clutch side would tend to bias the fork into the through out assembly.

I may leave the bolt out.

David
 
I don't see the regular locking pin in your photo. The extra screw (I used a taper pin) is in addition to the regular, square-headed pin, not in place of it, and the regular pin should locate the fork on the shaft. If you insert it, do you still have the problem?
 
I did use the square headed pin to locate the fork before I added the second screw. I had not install the screw that locates the shaft in the gearbox casting when I first installed the tapered square headed pin. When I went complete the assembly, everything tight and square pin wired I found I could not get the screw in the passenger side of the casting that locates the shaft.

I had removed the locating pin when the photo was taken as it is difficult to get the through out assembly off with it in place.
Still have the problem.

David
 
David,

I have seen this problem on another Forum and from memory the problem was with the new shaft, either the taper pin or the locater slot is in the wrong place. Leaving the locater pin out shouldn't be a problem, I have a box out of a TR6 and it doesn't have the locater pin. With a locater pin the anti rattle spring would be of very little value so you are good to go without the pin.

Graham
 
Graham H said:
David,

I have seen this problem on another Forum and from memory the problem was with the new shaft, either the taper pin or the locater slot is in the wrong place. Leaving the locater pin out shouldn't be a problem, I have a box out of a TR6 and it doesn't have the locater pin. With a locater pin the anti rattle spring would be of very little value so you are good to go without the pin.

Graham
Click to expand...

+1...I was going to mention that the outer locating bolt was later removed by Triumph.
 
I had a similar problem with a new shaft that I bought for my TR4A. When the locating/retaining bolt on the right side was installed, the fork wasn't centered. I suspected that the shaft was designed for a different car (TR6?) and there were minor differences in the later transmissions. But the error was greater than the 1.5 mm you are seeing; it was more like 5 mm, if I remember right.

That's why I suspected that the drilling for the new bolt might just be a little off. If the original pin were installed, that would tell you for sure if there is a problem with the shaft.
 
David,
I encountered the same problem a few weeks ago using a TR6 tranny with a TR3 clutch setup. As John says the locating bolt on the pax side is the problem. I found that changing the bolt from the 5/16" to a 1/4" with a nut on the end gave me enough room to move the shaft and allow the TOB carrier to function on the input shaft cover. Interesting that it could also just be left off.
 
Not a favorable result. The pin for the fork is offset ( not centered) and would therefore not allow even a close fit.
 
I am going to go with no retaining bolt on the Passengers side as it seems redundant any way.

Is there any issues with the grease coming out of the bolt hole if you fit the grease zerks?

David
 
My 6 box doesn't have grease nipples for the clutch shaft, Triumph must have relied on oil leaks for lubrication?

Graham
 
Glad you are getting David; I will be following close because I have no experience with OD and one day I will get mine up and going and I can learn from you. I would think a proper amount of grease would help lube and help seal the area.
steve
 
If you use a 1/4" bolt with a washer on each side of the tranny box and a nut you will effectively close off the hole and prevent grease getting out or dirt getting in.
 
I did the smaller diameter bolt.

Having contacted TRF about this problem Albert got back to me and said they were looking into it.
Great service from TRF.
Thank you.

David
 
Back
Top