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Clutch self-adjust?

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57_BN4 said:
The factory balanced the entire crank, flywheel and front pulley as one unit. If you put the flywheel on in any other position you'll most likely end up with vibration.

Andy.
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Ohhhhh. Makes sense. I noted the drill holes in the flywheel and assumed the flywheel was balanced as a single unit. Good to know - thanks.
steve
 
SteveHall64Healey said:
View attachment 30762
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The others have pretty well covered what to look for. It's really hard to diagnose these kind of problems without being hands on.

One additional thing to check, based on the pic in post #6 is the flatness of the flywheel and plate. The pattern of the disk indicates that one or both are cupped a bit. This wouldn't generally cause the problem you are noticing but can significantly reduce the life of the assembly and it's holding power.
 
Supplementary Questions Gents:

i - I removed the filter basket under the OD and found it heavily caked in grease at the base of the basket. Is the area at the base of the filter basket supposed to be packed with grease?
ii - When I refill the gearbox with oil, will that automatically fill the OD and will the level mark on the gearbox dipstick also serve to indicate the correct level for both the gearbox and OD?

Thanks
steve
 
I think I understand the comment from AJAX50 re the Clevis pin length. I've acquired a new clutch, cover, slave cylinder, rebuilt master cylinder, shims, and a long and short clevis pin to see if this has an impact on clutch engagement, and am installing next week. Will let you know how it goes.
steve
 
After considerable effort, this problem is resolved.

In the end, I did replace the clutch and cover plate - largely because I had the gearbox out and had the opportunity.

I also installed the Moss rear main seal kit while I was there, which was not as challenging as I had anticipated. Instructions were quite good, as were the drill guides supplied in the kit. All tolled, it took about 2 hours.

I also replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders. The slave was original and obviously in need of replacement as the piston moved too easily in and out of the cylinder. When a newslave was installed, the throw on the clevis pin and thrust bearing was markedly increased. I had rebuilt the master last year and assumed it was ok, but when I replaced it with new, the throw on the clevis pin and thrust bearing increased siginifcantly again. Also of note: there were no fluid leaks evident for either, which might suggest a rebuild or replacement was in order.

If I had to do this again, I would start with replacing the master and slave cylinders, as it is far cheaper and easier than going directly to the clutch. That said, with the gearbox out, I was able to fix a couple of small leaks, clean it and the OD out properly and do the main seal.

Thanks for the help on this everyone,
Steve
 
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