• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Clutch probs

Share this page

:iagree: with Geo..... makes perfect sense.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Sure, and the guys who climb Mt Everest mostly go up 'the easy way'.
Click to expand...
On a Stag, it doesn't come out through the interior (no removable tunnel), so it has to come out the bottom.

If doing a TR6 is like climbing Everest, then a Stag is more like Cerro Torre
 
71MKIV said:
I know from experience, (not on my car thankfully) that missing tw's will result in no clutch release, and experience on my car, the clutch released but made awfull noises.
Click to expand...

I agree with Steve,TW's fall out no clutch.Seen a guy put a longer push rod in, and yes he had a clutch but a couple days later was looking for a block and crankshaft.Crank did a fine "machining" job on things.
 
TR3driver said:
On a Stag, it doesn't come out through the interior (no removable tunnel), so it has to come out the bottom.
Click to expand...
Well GEE, on a Triumph 10 sedan or wagon, technically the ENGINE doesn't even come out from above. Actually, it's just possible to do it from above, but it's generally felt to be easier to do it the factory way: raise the front of the car, unbolt and remove the front suspension subframe, and then lower the engine out the bottom!
 
Andrew Mace said:
but it's generally felt to be easier to do it the factory way: raise the front of the car, unbolt and remove the front suspension subframe, and then lower the engine out the bottom!
Click to expand...
I had a FWD Chevy that was the same way. Either the gearbox alone, or engine+gearbox could be lowered out the bottom, once the subframe was out of the way (and the engine suitable supported if removing only the gearbox).

But unlike the Stag, it had the bolts where you could actually get to them, usually even see them as you put a socket on. I'd rather do it twice than the Stag once!
 
Gliderman8 said:
Just checking the obvious...
Have you checked the hydraulic fluid in the clutch master cylinder?
Are there any hydraulic leaks under the clutch pedal?
No fluid=no pushrod movement.
Click to expand...

Yes I checked and rechecked, and it's obvious the hydraulic fluid is leaking out somewhere. Since the car was sold with a new spare clutch master cylinder in the trunk, my guess is the previous owner detected a problem but never got around to changing it (allthough listed as exchanged).
This saturday I'll therefore try to change it, bleed the system and test how it all works. Any experiences regarding this operation? Tricks and probs?

If this solves the clutch malfunction, it points towards the noise and the clutch problem to be two separate problems. An "expert" friend of mine suggests the noise may be coming from some joint in the rear axel area. Which of these are most vulnerable/ prone to wear out?

Hope to return here on Saturday, reporting progress with clutch operation and noise detection.
 
Back
Top