• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

T-Series Clutch pedal travel and point of engagement

Share this page

1

100DashSix

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
Where in the stroke of the MG clutch pedal should the clutch be fully engaged/disengaged? I recently replaced my clutch hydraulic system, but now the clutch engages very close to the floor. Before the change it was a bit higher. Where should it be?

I also noticed wear on the top of the clutch pedal where it attaches to the master cylinder push rod: the hole where the clevis pin goes is wallowed out into a ellipsoid shape. This adds a dead zone in the clutch pedal travel, so it takes a longer stroke before the system actually pushes any hydraulic fluid. I didn't replace the pedal. How hard is it to swap out?

Thanks
 
Not that big a deal, the pivot bolt and return spring. The "stacking order" of the sleeve and washers is a bit of a PITA on re-assembly but not too bad.

The pushrod/pin/pedal slop can account for a LOT of lost movement. I've a few pins in my "Wall of Shame" collection that look like miniature crankshafts, they're so badly worn. If you're headed for the pedal assembly, get new bushings for the pivot bolt too. It (wear) all adds up to dramatically reduce the throw down at the slave. The other spot to look at is the pivot bush in the T/O arm. If you can "woggle" the arm with the slave disconnected, that bushing may be overly worn.

... tho THAT job entails engine/trans R&R. :shocked:
 
I'll take a look at the wear on the throwout arm. I think the bush was fine, but there may have been some wear on the connector between the pushrod and the arm--though I can't remember if the wear was on the slave cyl side (which I replaced) or the arm itself.

It sounds like I can remove the clutch pedal assembly without removing the master cylinders or any hydraulic lines, which is fine by me. I'll have to find a clutch pedal on eBay, though, unless someone here has one.

Or perhaps I can weld the hole closed and re-drill it?
 
I've welded/re-drilled a number of 'em.
 
I've got a MIG 115V/22-135A welder that may be up to the task, if it's not too thick.

Did you fit a metal slug and weld that to the pedal, or just try to fill the hole with the welder?
 
Just filled it partially. I think I recall using a rat-tail file to "finish" it, too. Laborious but accurate enuff.
 
Back
Top