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Clutch pedal no fluid? 2 -3 years of sitting...
- Thread starter Blackjokr
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Jedi Warrior
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Two-person bleeding.
One person in the driver's seat (the Pusher), one under the car (the Bleeder) with a wrench on the bleeder valve, a length of clear tubing over the end of the bleeder and the other end of the tubing in a clear container to catch the waste.
1) The Bleeder opens the bleeder valve and shouts "OK".
2) The Pusher presses the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it there and shouts "OK".
3) The Bleeder closes the bleeder valve and shouts "OK".
4) The Pusher lifts his/her foot not fast but not slow and when the pedal is fully up s/he shouts "OK".
5) Repeat as needed until you see no bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder.
Check the fluid level in the clutch master every fourth or fifth cycle. Do not let it go dry or you will have to start all over.
The tubing needs to be snug over the end of the bleeder valve or it may slip off (messy!) or it may allow bubbles to form at that point that will confuse you.
This is the same process for brakes. I also sometimes make a power bleeder by attaching a hose nipple to a spare MC cap and pressurizing the MC with a 1 gallon garden sprayer so that I can bleed alone. But the two person method is simple to set up, usually results in less mess, and only inconveniences the second person for less than a half hour.
On edit: I have a decidedly 1275 point of view. I have read that the 1500 has it's own issues with slave placement, hose routing and access (from above or below?)and that has been posted about and should be considered.
One person in the driver's seat (the Pusher), one under the car (the Bleeder) with a wrench on the bleeder valve, a length of clear tubing over the end of the bleeder and the other end of the tubing in a clear container to catch the waste.
1) The Bleeder opens the bleeder valve and shouts "OK".
2) The Pusher presses the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it there and shouts "OK".
3) The Bleeder closes the bleeder valve and shouts "OK".
4) The Pusher lifts his/her foot not fast but not slow and when the pedal is fully up s/he shouts "OK".
5) Repeat as needed until you see no bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder.
Check the fluid level in the clutch master every fourth or fifth cycle. Do not let it go dry or you will have to start all over.
The tubing needs to be snug over the end of the bleeder valve or it may slip off (messy!) or it may allow bubbles to form at that point that will confuse you.
This is the same process for brakes. I also sometimes make a power bleeder by attaching a hose nipple to a spare MC cap and pressurizing the MC with a 1 gallon garden sprayer so that I can bleed alone. But the two person method is simple to set up, usually results in less mess, and only inconveniences the second person for less than a half hour.
On edit: I have a decidedly 1275 point of view. I have read that the 1500 has it's own issues with slave placement, hose routing and access (from above or below?)and that has been posted about and should be considered.
G
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Guest
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Never force a shift either. If you do, shift may hit the fan.
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Blackjokr said:
Oops, sorry.
Disconnect pedal and remove the Master Cylinder. This is hardest to do the first time as the bolts are tightly located. I used a 1/4 inch drive socket with an extension as the walls on the socket are narrower.
Lift the Master Cylinder higher than the hose and pump the piston. It will get real hard real quick but i shoved a screwdriver in the hole where the clevis Pin goes and wear a glove. Rock the MC back and forth slowly and watch the bubbles come out. Reinstall MC. Once you have it off it takes about two minutes.
It is probably worth adjusting the slave so the the hose is over the bleed nipple so no air gets in the corner, but, either way it is super easy.
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Yes. The MC for the brakes and the MC for the clutch are both mounted to the same bracket over the pedals. They are not connected to each other however. (some cars are) Take the clutch MC off the bracket. This involves removing the clevis pin that connects it to the pedal and two bolts which connect it to the bracket. The bolts are, admittedly, awkwardly placed.
bthompson
Jedi Warrior
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Actually, it is possible to bleed the slave on a 1500 from the driver's seat, and make it a one person job. Take out the rubber plug on the driver's side of the trans tunnel. Use a little 1/4" ratchet, every extension you have, and a uni joint or wobble joint. Sixteen inches of extension or so, I think. Don't bother with rubber tubes; just thread the extensions through until you reach the bleeder nipple. Then it's a simple matter of pushing the clutch, and giving the bleeder a quick crack. Repeat until firm. JP's way is more thorough, but if you have the extensions, this way is much easier and is worth a try.
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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Blackjokr said:
Don't worry. with a 1500 clutch you will most likely get to try them all.