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Clutch pedal no fluid? 2 -3 years of sitting...

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Blackjokr

Jedi Warrior
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car was garage kept. So I got my car staretd but when I push the clutch it won't shift. I forced a shift and wow it kicked in. So the clutch feels like it was "empty". I opened the hood and saw(forgive me i am a neophyte to this) the round white plastic container that if you are looking at the front of the car is right in front of the driver's side. I am pretty sure this is a reservoir for the brake fluid. I open it and it is full, but the fluid looks a little black-ish in color. So I open a white plastic cap right next to this (about 1.5" wide I guess) on a metal container, smaller than the other container. I assume this is the clutch slave cylinder??? It looked empty. So, do I fill this container with fluid? if so, what? I thought I understodd it as Dot4 brake fluid, but am not sure. Thanks in advance for the help!

Lou
 
Lou, you are correct. The brake is on the fender side and the clutch is on the engine side. The brake will have two metal lines coming off and going toward the engine. The clutch should have a red plastic hose going towards the windshield and diasappearing down behind the battery box. Yes DOT 4 will work. Fill it and try it though you may have to bleed it. Bleeding 1500's is a PITA the traditional way as the hose is higher than the master cylinder and traps air bubbles. The easiest way is to remove the master cylinder from the car. Use an extension and a 1/4" socket to get thin enough. Hold the MC higher than the hose. Pump it till the bubbles are gone, about a minutes and reattach. Btw Brake fluid will eat you paint so be careful!
 
John,

I thought it was in reverse. Is the bigger reservoir for brakes and the metal one with the white cap for clutch? I opened the little one again and has fluid inside but not even half full. Should it be full? thanks again...hould i post a pic?
 
You are correct. I think JP misspoke or has moved to England!! Clutch towards fender, brake near the engine.

Kurt.
 
lol..thanks guys..you all rock!! ok so guys should tha cylinder be completely full? Right now the level is about to where the inside aparatus exists..maybe about 20% full?

And of course Pep Boys did not have any Fot 4 brake fluid. They had 3/4 but I thin kthat's a bad idea. Curiously, they had Lucas clutch fluid. would that work?
 
Blackjokr said:
lol..thanks guys..you all rock!! ok so guys should tha cylinder be completely full? Right now the level is about to where the inside aparatus exists..maybe about 20% full?

And of course Pep Boys did not have any Fot 4 brake fluid. They had 3/4 but I thin kthat's a bad idea. Curiously, they had Lucas clutch fluid. would that work?
Click to expand...

My bad on the order. Sorry. No, clutch fluid will not work. 3/4 should work. As i understand it, everything is compatible with eveything except DOT 5. It should not be full to the brim but only 2/3 -3/4 as the cap has a vent hole.
 
2-3 years of sitting and clutch plate may be stuck to the flywheel. There was a trick to fix it I can't remember it . Something about 4th gear.
 
I htink it might be stuck..put new fluid in and still dead...can;t even shift the dang thing! I was able to force a shift on Saturday, but not now. I thin I need ot go let then engine heat up but the dang hoses for the heater keep spiting up antifreeze when i push in the accelerator! I tried the cut off swithc in both directions. Which way does it go to be "off". Then I saw gas coming out near the bottom of the carburetor..must be a leak in one of the hoses..yikes!
 
If the clutch master cylinder is empty, you must refill it and bleed the system.
Otherwise, just filling the master cylinder will do no good.
The bleed screw is on thee slave cylinder (under the car, attached to the transmission). It's a pain in the neck to bleed the clutch on these cars.

There's probably a bunch of info here via "Search" about bleeding clutch systems.
 
Aeronca65t...thank you! I did fill it and yup still nada! So can I reach the screw from the top of the car or do i have ot go underneath? I have no lift so I use jacks and I am deathly afraid of this car on car jacks!

best,

Lou
 
Therre is an access panel on the side of the tranny tunnel on the passenger side to get to the bleeder screw. Pull the plug and start the routine with someone who has a lot of patience for pressing the clutch pedal up and down while you loosen the screw.
 
aeronca65t said:
Jim:
This car is a '79 1500, so no access panel for bleeder screw. That's on earlier cars.

Lou:
Only one way. Must be bled via crawling under the car while a helper pumps the pedal and holds it down at the correct time.
Click to expand...

you can bleed it from the top. see my earlier post. you do have to remove the Master Cylinder but it is a one person job.
 
To be honest, I've had pretty good luck pumping up the pedal, holding it down and cracking loose the upper line into the master.
Not an approved method, but will work in a pinch to get about 90% air out. Often the remaining air will work its way out with use.
 
Lou,

Get yourself a set of jack stands. The car is light, so a simple, low-cost pair from Kmart or similar will suffice. A small hydraulic jack is also useful, but you can use the Midget jack to raise the car one side at a time to place the stands. Then you can get under and manipulate the bleeder screw, attach the clear hose, place the loose end into a clear container (I prefer a Mason jar) and then you can watch for bubbles as the bleeding process takes place.

If you want help with the standard two-person bleeding procedure I will be happy to describe it.
 
:iagree:Do not ever get under a car on a jack! You can find a good pair of jack stands for under $20. Place those under something solid (chassis and not moveable suspension parts) and it is safe to crawl under.
 
Also there is a great Spridget balance point if you place jack stands just behind front wheels under the floorboards. You do not want to do that. Don't ask me how I know. For a job like this 2 jackstands under the rear axles and 2 under each side of the frame rails. Car is level and stable and gives you room to get underneath.
 
I very much agree with Tom et al about jack stands. I never ever go under the car without them. Coming to the bleeding, i can't say strongly enough that it is much harder with a 1500 because the hose passes higher than the MC. Some people have had luck jacking the front end higher. Otherwise the air collects,at,the high spot.
 
wow! you guys are absolutely amazing!!!! Thank you for all of the input!!!!!! I love this place!! I would love the 2 person process in detail too if possible. I am new at this but am very mechanically inclined with the right teacher/set of instructions! But I may have to resolve to the one person job. WEEEE!!!
 
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