TR2/3/3A Clutch not releasing

[Snigolet]

Hi All,
My 57 clutch has stopped releasing. I have new a new MC and SC and they seem to be working properly and delivering a generous inch of push. My issue is (seems to be) the throw out/release bearing. With the Slave pushrod disconnected, the clutch release lever has about an inch of free play (absolutely no resistance). But moving an inch forward or backward results in a solid thud (sounds like metal to metal). The pushrod is well aligned with the holes in the release lever when it the forward most position (toward the engine). When the pushrod is connected and the clutch pedal is pushed in, it moves the lever a generous inch but that is just enough to absorb the free play. The lever then hits the solid (thud) stop and will not move any further at all. The entire pushrod travel is absorbed by the free play in the lever arm.
I'm confident it isn't the hydraulics, im getting good hole alignment and good travel... It seems to be something to do with the release bearing - there seems to be no engagement of the release bearing (no resistance by the lever). It doesnt seem to be an adjustment, if just flat out isnt releasing the clutch. Any ideas anyone? Or is the tranny coming out this weekend???

Thanks to all who offer advice.

George

 

[DavidApp]

Was the clutch working before the new MC and SC? If it was have you got the SC mounting plate on the correct side of the bell housing? Did the SC come with the same length pushrod?

Since these photos I have moved the clevis to the center hole.

David

 

[Madflyer]

The center hole is normal. That being said the bad news may be you allowed the throw out fork to come free from the bearing sleeve. If you pulled the arm with out the rod it's travel is how you would replace the said bearing. Removal of trans may be only fix. I have several TR trans on my floor right now and I do not see other options. SORRY

 

[Snigolet]

The center hole is normal. That being said the bad news may be you allowed the throw out fork to come free from the bearing sleeve. If you pulled the arm with out the rod it's travel is how you would replace the said bearing. Removal of trans may be only fix. I have several TR trans on my floor right now and I do not see other options. SORRY

Ah ha! That sounds reasonable. The SC travel and position seems correct. So this is probably a self inflicted wound. I never suspected that the release bearing could come free from the fork. This may be the opportunity to replace the housing that has a damaged mounting flange. I replaced it many years ago but had to go with a long nose starter housing and I need a bull nose (circa comm 15778). I did the housing swap (and rebuilt the gearbox) in '70 when I didnt know better. Now that I'm older and do know better, I'm not sure whether I want to bite into the gearbox but on a fixed income so I cant afford a complete replacement. Are you rebuilding the gearboxes and on a scale of 1-10, how difficult is it?

Thanks for the insight.
George

 

[CJD]

Thrust bearing failure is usually accompanied with a grinding noise only when the pedal is depressed. It sounds like your clutch pressure plate is bad...or the disc is installed backwards if this is a new installation.

 

[bammons]

I did it without any experience two years ago. I really struggled getting the back housing off it was stuck hard. Once inside it was not as bad but you have to study the manual and listen to people here. Doable but on scale of 1-10 for the first time mine was a 8. Mine was already out of the car and was put back in with no body on. Bruce

 

[Madflyer]

OK first timer I will say an 8 10 being #^*#*! Tell me what parts you may need and I may have some or acc. to them. I will tell you any TR trans is better than a MG B. This is my best answer. Take your time take a pic at each step on phone or such. Look at a good parts brake down there some spring and ball loaded gears that if slipped will fly to ????? If you just need to change seals and gaskets and gears look as new send pic with top off. ( was it a quite running box to start??)
Start this way drain oil in to a screen use a magnet flush case with WD 40 look at gears first rev for any chips or gear aliment check shifting fork for wear should have raised flat pads. Your brass synchro's will look rough that is normal they are a rough casting to start.

This is a TR GT 6 1972 and most will look the same pic 2 shows' 1st Rev above is rev idler gear these do most work and easy to replace this is also where the two tie together pic 3 shows' wear to fork see little here. wear is caused when driver drives with hand on shift lever. note brass synchro's

You got this and will a better man for it. Shop time can be $60.00 to $80.00 and hour This forum is free

The Madflyer

 

[DavidApp]

I have a gearbox on the floor and can not move the clutch lever far enough to disengage the through out bearing. The square head tapered bolt stops it coming forward far enough to come off and back it hits the gearbox casing.

David

 

[sp53]

Perhaps a sheared bolt on the fork or the hydraulic system is weak. Does the hydraulic system have any leaks, like at the slave or master or line? When the system runs out of fluid the clutch stays on.

steve

 

[titanic]

Here is a link on rebuilding the trans. > Maintenance Handbook – Triumph Club – Vintage Triumph Register < Scroll down to the trans. sections. Also, reach out to a local TR club in your area (North Carolina?) or anyone on this forum that lives in the area. They can probably provide any special tools needed or hands on help.
Berry

 

[Madflyer]

At this point anyone's guess. Lost items are always found the last place you look. It is the same with your clutch system.
And last how many Maybe's make a found it