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T-Series Clutch MC
- Thread starter Raymond
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Raymond
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UPDATE:
so this weekend was the first time i had a chance to put in the new Slave and hose. pretty easy job only took about an hour. Bleeding was a bit of a pain
we ended up doing it with three people. i kept the reservoir full, my daughter pumped the clutch peddle and my buddy worked the bleeder( he instited ) we went through the better part of a large bottle of fluid. the clutch is working goo. the peddle grabs close to the floor. so im going to drive it a bit for the next few days and we are going to rebleed it late in the week. the peddle much lighter i dont know if thats because of the new slave or the need to bleed some more.
any thoughts?
Ray
so this weekend was the first time i had a chance to put in the new Slave and hose. pretty easy job only took about an hour. Bleeding was a bit of a pain
we ended up doing it with three people. i kept the reservoir full, my daughter pumped the clutch peddle and my buddy worked the bleeder( he instited ) we went through the better part of a large bottle of fluid. the clutch is working goo. the peddle grabs close to the floor. so im going to drive it a bit for the next few days and we are going to rebleed it late in the week. the peddle much lighter i dont know if thats because of the new slave or the need to bleed some more.
any thoughts?
Ray
G
gblawson
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No one asked the original 'poster' if he knew what fluid he had in the system?
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Could be. Especially after the symptoms from the old setup.
I'd say the pedal should be stroked thru a few cycles and held down, then put into gear and released to check where it engages. If the engagement point is further "up" the travel it still has air in it someplace. If the release point doesn't change the T/O bearing may be worn or there's excessive play in the linkages someplace.
I'd say the pedal should be stroked thru a few cycles and held down, then put into gear and released to check where it engages. If the engagement point is further "up" the travel it still has air in it someplace. If the release point doesn't change the T/O bearing may be worn or there's excessive play in the linkages someplace.
OP
Raymond
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HI
well we rebleed the System again today and the peddle was back to normal just much easier to depress "very light" but in a new car kinda way ( boy i hope that make sense to somebody other than me)
we are still going to bleed it again later in the week
thanks to all of you for all the help and advice
Ray
well we rebleed the System again today and the peddle was back to normal just much easier to depress "very light" but in a new car kinda way ( boy i hope that make sense to somebody other than me)
we are still going to bleed it again later in the week
thanks to all of you for all the help and advice
Ray
R
RonMacPherson
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Often a symptom of air in the system, yes. But could also be too much "slack", i.e. freeplay present. Pedal to pushrod hole wear, slave pushrod to clutch linkage play, clutch arm play.
One SURE way to bleed a clutch system(first pop off the boot on the slave and make sure the piston is pushed out towards the rod. If it is in towards the bottom of the cylinder, you will never get it completely bled.) Is to get a pressure bleeder and reverse bleed from the slave cylinder. Also, make sure the bleed port is facing up, the highest part of the slave cylinder.
Something like a mity-vac. Fill the mity vac reservoir with clean brake fluid, then using the pressure port on the mity vac pump(usually at the top of the pump body) hook up a line from the pressure port, to the reservoir, to the bleed port on the slave cylinder, then pump, keeping an eye on the master cylinder so that the fluid does not spill out onto the paint..
Works every time..
One SURE way to bleed a clutch system(first pop off the boot on the slave and make sure the piston is pushed out towards the rod. If it is in towards the bottom of the cylinder, you will never get it completely bled.) Is to get a pressure bleeder and reverse bleed from the slave cylinder. Also, make sure the bleed port is facing up, the highest part of the slave cylinder.
Something like a mity-vac. Fill the mity vac reservoir with clean brake fluid, then using the pressure port on the mity vac pump(usually at the top of the pump body) hook up a line from the pressure port, to the reservoir, to the bleed port on the slave cylinder, then pump, keeping an eye on the master cylinder so that the fluid does not spill out onto the paint..
Works every time..
G
gblawson
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Bleeding it requires adding new fluid... if you add Dot to Silicone or visa versa you have a few 'issues' with all your rubber seals!