bob67bgt said:
Most of the time when you get a new slave cyl for a mgb the bleeder is in the wrong hole. It ships easier that way. Be sure that the bleeder faces the right side of the car and not the front. When the flex line goes bad from the inside it will not release fluid fast enough. Then when you pumped the pedal pressure kept building up in the slave cylinder and pushing the piston further out till it blew. That also explains why you had a slipage problem. Start soaking the steel line where it goes into the flex line with a wd 40 type product. The nut tends to stick to the steel line and that may help. Good luck. Bob
Good advice, Bob (& you'd be surprised how many people don't move the bleeder to the correct hole - yep, they put it in the wrong hole purely as a packaging aid)....I think a key word in Bob's answer is "WD-40-type product"...what Bob is saying to do is something I always do: put, in my case PB Blaster, on the nut at the end of the steel line & turn it several times to get rid of the rust between it & the hard line (at one time I also used WD-40 for that type job).
DrEntropy said:
Thank you Bob! Those flex lines are sooo ignored.
WD-40 would be my last choice tho. "WD" means "Water Displacement".... NOT a penetrant. PB Blaster is th' most common GOOD penetrating lube available.
More good advice...Bob & Doc are both correct....the first thing I always look at in a clutch system is that flex line in front of the slave cylinder...everybody ignores it & they collapes inside causing clutch problems.
...&, reading from the WD-40 can I have in my hand, it does say "Loosens Rusted Pieces"....whether or not it actually does that is, well, something else....I've gotten to where I use PB Blaster for everything that's rusted or needs loosening.....but WD-40 does claim it does that & I also used it for many years until I found PB Blaster.
Scott_Hower said:
Erm... with all due respect, you would be wrong. It is not personal opinion/preference, it is a matter of results.
The pro wrenches swear by Kroil, Liquid Wrench and/or PB Plaster. WD-40 is a thin oil, but those in the know use a real penetrating oil.
Again, I agree with Scott that I prefer PB Blaster (don't consider myself a "pro wrench" though) but that doesn't mean WD-40 won't do what its designed to do...& until I found PB, I used WD-40 for all the things it says it does on the can: "Stops Squeaks", "Cleans and Protects", "Loosens Rusted Parts", "Frees Sticky Mechanisms", and "Drives Out Moisture" in that order because it actually does each of them - just not as well, IMO, as other products.
But, instead of hanging on the merits of WD-40, PB Blaster, etc. we've gotta get Ray's clutch system fixed....I've ordered a new clutch slave cylindetr & flex hose for him....while he's waiting on them, there are some things he can do:
1) Remove the old hose & cylinder
2) Make sure the nut on the end of the hard line is free
3) Were it me, blow air through the hard line from the master cylinder to the slave, making sure its clear, & while at it, check to make sure there are no kinks in the hard line.
4) With a syringe, suck all the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder & run new fluid through it until he's seeing clean fluid exiting the hard line.
Just some things I do, FWIW.
{Oh, Bob, don't leave us - you've added some valuable information to the discussion....& discussion is what we do over here; we just don't get personal (or at least I didn't think we did)...continue to jump in even when your position is different from those of others....we all learn from those type discussions.}