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Clutch bleeding problems

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Sportsdoc

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Having trouble getting the slave cylinder to work. I have a rebuilt master, new slave cylinder, new clutch line. Brakes bled fine, but I bleed the slave cylinder and cannot get the arm to move. No leaks.

Any help appreciated.
 
Did you try keeping the pushrod pushed back into the slave while bleeding?
 
Another way to bleed a really stubborn clutch is to wire the clevis to the rear of the clutch mount or hold the arm with the piston at rest which does not allow the piston to stroke.

Then attach a clear plastic bleeder line to the clutch slave bleeder port and bring it up to the clutch master cylinder and stick it in the reservoir. Tape or hold it in place.

Open the slave bleed port.

Slowly actuate the clutch pedal until all air is removed in the clear bleeder line.

Close the bleeder, remove the clutch wire or hold back.

When removing the clear line from the reservoir plug it and get it back under the car before removing the other end to prevent paint damage.

Actuate the clutch pedal and it should work. If not you could possibly be in the wrong clutch arm hole or a pin is sheared on transmission fork shaft.

It is also possible that a crankshaft shim has worked its way out and too much crankshaft end play is taking up the clutch stroke.

Arlie
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No, I have the pushrod connected to the clutch arm with the clevis pin installed. It looks like I have bled it properly but the pedal won't develop enough pressure to move the slave push rod.

I initially installed a new steel line that during bleeding began to move the pushrod; however, it was leaking at the master. I installed a new steel braided flexible line with no leaks, but now I can't get it to move the push rod.
 
Since you have new lines, master and slave clutch cylinders it has to be air.

I know it sounds weird that you think you got all the air out but check again. Also make sure the slve bleeder is at the top when mounted.

Or could you have it mounted on the wrong side of the engine and transmission housing


Try the steps I mentioned on the previuos post. I have seen this numerous times with British cars.

Good Luck!
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Sometimes you have to bleed them from the bottom up. Run a hose from the right front brake wheel cylinder bleeder to the bleeder on the clutch slave. Open both bleeders and loosen the clutch line tubing at the clutch master cylinder. push down on the brake and this forces fluid up into the clutch slave bleeder and into the clutch line and forces the air out at the clutch master cylinder. I have seen this work on LBCs when all else fails.
 
Thanks, I've looked at various places and gotten some more ideas. It's mounted correctly, with the bleeder up. I saw one post where they recommend removing the slave cylinder and using a screwdriver to push the piston up multiple times, therefore expelling air up into the master.

Also saw another that recommended attaching tubing from a brake bleeder to the slave bleeder and pumping the brakes. Since my brakes are fine, this might be the way to go.
 
Thanks, Kim, your post appeared while I was writing mine. I think that's the way to go.

Will give an update soon.
 
Do you have to loosen the clutch line into the master? That leaked on me before so I hate to mess with that again.
 
Sportsdoc said:
Do you have to loosen the clutch line into the master? That leaked on me before so I hate to mess with that again.
Click to expand...
I hate to force fluid back into any master like that. If the line fitting is correct then it should not leak there when tight. I would loosen the line there as a make shift bleader so the air comes out and doesn't go into the master. Also put something in the floorboard to catch any fluid that might leak in there. Its kind of messy but it works.
 
Another way is to 'bench bleed' the master. Remove the line to the slave. Bend an old line so that it ends in the resevor of the master. Pump it several times til no bubbles come out. Reattach the line to the slave and bleed again at the slave.
 
The air gets trapped in the line and the master does not move enough fluid to get it all out in one bleed and when you close the bleeder and get another pump on the master the fliud slips by the air in the line and goes to the bottom. It has to do with the line going over to the passenger side and then down to the slave. Air gets trapped in there.
 
An update: Tried the tubing from brake bleeder to clutch bleeder. Did not work since when I loosened the brake bleeder the fluid leaked around the bleeder screw instead of just out the port. Also got air in the brake lines!!

My current plan: Since I have a flexible line, I'm going to remove the slave cylinder and elevate it above the master so the air will rise and not get caught in the loop. Then I will pump the clutch pedal and hopefully have fluid force the air out the top.

I should buy Castrol LMA in bulk as much as I've used so far.
 
This last yr. I was involved in a major redo of my car. I went synthetic with my hydrolics and have never regretted it. With your problems, I would go ahead and do it with your clutch. It is easier on the paint. I think when you push you clutch with it not engaged, You will find out how far the plunger will go. I had the same problem with my clutch earlier this yr and the 'bench bleed' was the only way I could get it to work.
 
Clutch is bled!!!!!

Took the slave cylinder off the mount, left line attached. Pushed the push rod up into the slave a couple times and heard the air bubble out of the master. Now have a firm clutch pedal that activate the clutch arm. Woo-hoo!!

I needed this victory.
 
hurray!
 
Way to go.
 
Richard,
Did you pull fluid into the Slave via the bleeder or just simply pushed the rod with the bleeder closed? I have a firmer pedal than you had..and the SC rod is moving 1/2-3/4", but clutch will not disengage. I'm hoping I'm not getting a full stroke out of SC..and that the clutch is not frozen..
I figure I'll bleed some more before I start pulling eng/trans!

Thanks - devin
 
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