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Choosing the correct front coil spring

gmichael52 said:
tosoutherncars said:
But then the wheel Geometry would be way off. I'd probably be better off getting a Suzuki Samurai front axle with leaf springs and doing it up. Then I could go out and make some plowing money with my MG during the winter months. But then I'd need more power and a stronger drivetrain.
 
Pythias - can you explain further? You lost me at the "without removing the spring pan" comment....are you saying you put (3) 1/8" thick washers in between the a-arm and the spring pan on one side of the front of the vehicle?
 
Front, Bugeye, Sprite MK 1 & II and Midget MK 1 springs should be 9.4 inch long

Sprite MK II & Midget MK II & III except 1500 models should be 9.59 inch long

All 1500 models 9.85 inch long

Spring rate should be 271 lbf/in for all.
 
Atrus said:
are you saying you put (3) 1/8" thick washers in between the a-arm and the spring pan on one side of the front of the vehicle?

Yes, that's exactly what I did. 12 of them all together, three at each corner. .

I removed ONE bolt, and replaced it with a longer one. I screwed on the nut until it was flush at the end of the bolt not tight against the pan. Then the diagonally opposite one. I Next came the other two, one at time, but as I put the new bolts in, I slipped the washers between the pan and the A-arm, again leaving them loose. Then undo the first ones replaced and slipped the washers in, then tightened it all up. .. Voila!

There were always at least two bolts keeping the spring compressed.
 
jlaird said:
Front, Bugeye, Sprite MK 1 & II and Midget MK 1 springs should be 9.4 inch long

Sprite MK II & Midget MK II & III except 1500 models should be 9.59 inch long

All 1500 models 9.85 inch long

Spring rate should be 271 lbf/in for all.
So, could I put the Mk II springs on my 1500 to lower it?
 
For rear springs with sag, rebuild them. Most of the sag in the rear springs comes from the plastic spacer sheets wearing down. I sourced some MDS filled poly carb sheet from Mc Master Carr and disassemble, clean them up, replace the strips and bushings and your back in business. Started doing it after receiving c**p replacements from VB.
KA
 
Biggest issue with taking rear springs apart is finding the spring clamps. Typical Spring Shops don't have anything near that small. Someone who works on boat trailers and pop top camer type trailers would have suitable clamps.
 
jlaird said:
Front, Bugeye, Sprite MK 1 & II and Midget MK 1 springs should be 9.4 inch long

Sprite MK II & Midget MK II & III except 1500 models should be 9.59 inch long

All 1500 models 9.85 inch long

Spring rate should be 271 lbf/in for all.

Thanks! I see if I can find any paint on the current ones and start scheming for a drop. I got a quote from a very reputable MG specialist for $350 to do it all. Which would certainly ensure it was done right but that's too much $$$ for me.
They said 3 hours to swap springs. Would it really take that long for someone with tools and knowledge? Seems like an MG pro could do a full engine swap in 3 hours let along swap springs? Or am I underestimating the job?
 
Rear springs aren't always the answer to the leaning problem. I had mine inspected and re-arched last summer. They are identical when placed next to one another. The car still leans. Seems a lot of times the rear lean can come from the front springs (as stupid as that sounds).

I agree with the small clamps observation. My plan was to rebuild them, but I was leery to pull them all apart for fear of not being able to clamp them back up well.
 
lbc_newbie said:
jlaird said:
Front, Bugeye, Sprite MK 1 & II and Midget MK 1 springs should be 9.4 inch long

Sprite MK II & Midget MK II & III except 1500 models should be 9.59 inch long

All 1500 models 9.85 inch long

Spring rate should be 271 lbf/in for all.
So, could I put the Mk II springs on my 1500 to lower it?

That's what I did - and had the rear springs de-arched an inch or so
 
jvandyke said:
Would it really take that long for someone with tools and knowledge? Seems like an MG pro could do a full engine swap in 3 hours let along swap springs? Or am I underestimating the job?

3 hours - likely if that includes front/ rear springs front/ rear socks - it's not a tough job but can take time
 
Front Spring data from '72 Workshop manual:
948cc Spridgets:
Free Length- 9.4 in.

1098cc Spridgets:
Free Length- 9.59 in.

1275cc Spridgets:(after Gan5-123837)
Free Length- 9.85 in.
regards,Bob
 
JPSmit said:
jvandyke said:
Would it really take that long for someone with tools and knowledge? Seems like an MG pro could do a full engine swap in 3 hours let along swap springs? Or am I underestimating the job?

3 hours - likely if that includes front/ rear springs front/ rear socks - it's not a tough job but can take time

Quote was for front spring replacement only.
 
This from another forum:
The coil springs on your car originally were:
part# 2A4214 (for Frogeye, GAN1/HAN6 and GAN2/HAN7)
free length: 9,4" (238 mm)
coil diam: 3,625"(92 mm)
winding diam: 13 mm
number of effective coils: 7
working load: 750 lb
rate: 271 lb/inch (3,12 kg/m)

I wonder what the safe limit is for using lowering spacers? I need to get it down about 2", that's a lot.
 
Jim and Group: As to rebuilding the rears here's how I do it. First remove the center bolt then very carefully the clamps clos'est to the ends. Slide the longest leaf out then you will have room to slide the rest of the clamps out of your way. The clamps you had to undo are prone to breaking the little tab off. If that happens I reassemble, tack with a welder, and douse with water to keep from burning the rubber inserts. If you end up with one that sags a bit more than the other it goes on the off side. I think you can get better spring action than was available stock. Hey, If it does'nt work you end up doing what you were going to do in the first place. Buy springs!!
KA
 
I pulled a wheel and stuck my head up in there looking for paint ID. Found a label! Pulled it off, looks like part #5-5080 VB front coil spring. Correct for the car but correct spring? Judging by ride height, something isn't cool.
 
You got a set of mismarked springs just like I did. I ended up going with BE Springs from VB plus added a lowering kit. Lets just say driveways and speedbumps are interesting to negotiate. Exhaust pipe hits in the front if I do not carefully go over. If I was to take apart again I would probably remove the lowering kit. Lowering kit is simply 4 spacers 1" long on each side. That's it. Same as adding stacks of 3/8" washers as someone suggested.
 
I'm planning on the lowering spacers and see where I am. Keep the springs for now.
 
So as a "proof of concept" adventure I got 3" bolts, 2" steel spacers. And they're half installed. Just experimenting so far.
Looking at VB lowering stuff. Reducing a CB car's spring free length by .8 of an inch results in a 1/4" drop. The RB set is a decrease in free length of about the same I guess, for a 1" drop, rate is different 340 and 330 respectively, I guess that accounts for the 3/4" different in ride reduction?
Interesting what I'll end up with a 2" spacer....probably trouble.
Well, I don't know that dropped to perfect as far as I can tell. Now I wonder if I can run it like this? With 2" spacers I mean.
lowered.JPG
 
Hey John - Peter Smit, That picture of that car above got my attention. About a month ago when we had a break in the weather I was walking in my neighborhood and saw a car exactly like the one in the picture except it was blue and seemed jacked up a bit higher with bigger wheels. I remember it cause the first thing that came to my mind was getting a picture to show all of you in the forum. Did you sell this or is it someone you know?
 
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