Tune-up procedures [was: Changing points...]
Hi,
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Bill and Piman-
Okay, you gave me enough courage. I changed the points and condensor. At first the car wouldn't start at all. So, I adjusted the points so that they were touching a portion of the rotor arm. The car started right away, sounded strong, but idled high (never done that). I'm totally new to this points and rotor arm stuff. I do have a tune-up kit from TRF (where I got the points and condensor), but I'm unsure about the rotor arm. How does this come off the distributor? The new one makes me believe it just basically pops off? Sincere thanks.
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You are correct, the rotor is easily removed. It just pulls off, upward. The new one pushes on adn will sort of snap into place. Just be a little careful because it's possible to break the plastic rotor and/or distributor cap.
I'm going to expand a little on ignition tuneup related issues, with some info you might or might not know and might find helpful.
There is some variance in specifications from one model of car to the next (so consult a service manual for your car), but the following is pretty widely applicable for most older points-style ignition systems.
In additon to the points and rotor, you might also consider a new distributor cap if you haven't already installed one. Over time and use, caps get cracked and develop electrical tracks or other problems that mess with the ignition. It's hard to see and diagnose some of these problems so for the cost is generally easiest to just replace the cap at the same time as the rotor and points.
Some tips when replacing the cap: It's important to keep them in the right order. So loosen the old cap from the dizzy without removing the plug wires (it's okay to remove the center, coil wire since that one is easy to remember). Decide the orientation of the new cap (usually a tab and slot on the cap and dizzy) and then temporarily reinstall the old cap and carefully transfer the plug wires from old to new, one at a time being very careful to keep them in the same order. If need be, number the wires and write the matching numbers on the cap where each wire re-attaches.
The newly installed points need to be gapped. I.e., the distance between the two points should be set to a specified amount measured with a feeler gauge, when the points are being held open the maximum amount (the rubbing block is on top of of the lobes on the shaft). Consult the repair manual for your car to get the specified gap.
The point gap should be rechecked after the car has been run for a short while, maybe 25-100 miles. The rubbing block tends to wear alot initially and that will allow the gap to close slightly. So it usually needs to be re-adjusted. It's also a good idea to check/adjust occasionally, say every 100 miles, since the rubbing block continues to wear over the points' lifespan.
Some replacement points' rubbing blocks have been reported to wear too quickly. A little grease wiped on the shaft where the rubbing block rides might help it last longer. Be careful, though, that there is only a smear or wipe of grease, so that none is spun off where it might foul the points or cause other problems.
The reason your idle increased probably has to do with the engine's ignition timing changing with the new parts installed. Consult a repair manual for your car's timing specifications. Commonly a timing light is used to set this, although there are other methods that will work pretty well, too. There is a clamp at the base of the dizzy that's loosened to allow the entire distributor to be turned to change timing. Many Triumph's also have a fine adjustment on the dizzy that makes it pretty easy dial in the timing more (or make adjustments on the road, for poorer or better quality gas, for example).
New wires can help an ignition system work a lot more efficiently, too. Generally, kits are available, but sometimes it's necessary to buy a "universal" set, cut to size. If that's done, just try to keep the wires as short as possible, but still allow some slight slack for a little movement of the distributor when setting the timing. Also watch the routing of the wires, that they aren't laying against a metal engine part that might rub or transfer heat to damage them and/or cause a short. And, plug wires are usually okay crossing each other at 45-90 degrees (like an X) but the high voltage current might jump from one to the other if the wires are lying closely parallel to each other (bundling with a zip tie might be a bad idea, for example). Just arrange them so that they aren't touching, if at all possible (and be careful to not change the firing order in the process), or only are crossing at 45-90 degrees to each other. If they must run parallel, many types of wire separators are available at most auto parts stores and can help prevent problems.
This is also a good time to pull the spark plugs and replace or clean them, checking that the plug gap is correctly adjusted. Here, again, it's easy to get the wires mixed up, so do one at a time. Just be a little careful to not cross-thread the plug in the cylinder head and possibly use a little anti-seize on the threads as well. This is available in small packets at most auto parts stores.
There is also a dielectric grease in small packets avalable at most auto parts stores. A small amount of this smeared on the inside of the plug wire boots will help prevent corrosion, keep water out and make the boot easier to remove the next time you do a tune-up. (This stuff is useful on many electrical connections, and even light bulbs around the home.)
Once all this is done, you might need to adjust the idle a bit and possibly rebalance the carbs.
Be sure to listen for any pinging or knocking in the engine that might indicate timing is over-advanced. Pinging and knocking can damage an engine pretty quickly!
All this is standard tune-up procedure for most older points-style ignitions. It's a good process for anyone enjoying driving an old car to learn. Besides these regularly replaced parts and adjustments, the main thing to watch out for is that the dizzy is in good working condition. Some possible dizzy-related issues include internal advance springs getting soft and weak over time causing incorrect advance, old vacuum hoses loosening or cracking and leaking causing incorrect advance and/or retard, and worn bushings in the dizzy inducing a wobble that messes up ignition timing.
Hope this helps!
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