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Caswell Copy Cad/Zinc plating kit

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I use a 3 amp power supply (the one sold by Caswell) and it works great for most any parts you would find on an LBC but not large enough for the brake booster sized part that Basil is considering. For any part(s) you should calculate the surface area and adjust the amps to match the part(s). Caswell recommends 1 amp per 40 sq inch (25 mA per sq inch) with 1-4 volts approx .. but I've following Sean's recommendation of 3x to 4x the amps in my set-up (80-100 mA per sq in). There are some other variables, the temp. of the plating bath, proximity of anodes, etc. About the largest part I can do is one seat slide (66 sq in) but even this requires a horizontal tray to submerge the part.

Cheers,
John
 
I also obtained some Nitric acid that has been diluted down to 1% solution

Where did you get the Nitric acid John and does the blue chromate change the color?

Jack
 
[ QUOTE ]
Where did you get the Nitric acid John and does the blue chromate change the color?

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Jack,

I was able to get some Nitric acid through a friend that does metal sculpture (it is used to patina the metal). I had found some places that would sell me small quantities on-line but it has some hazardous material shipping charge added to it which really bumped up the price. I would check in your area for someone who does metal patinas .. it's best if they can dilute it down for you .. at high concentrations it is very nasty stuff .. you don't want to get it on you or breathe the fumes.

The 'blue" chromate is really a clear chromate with a slight blue tint. Sean C has some images that compare the tints on the following link:

https://forum.caswellplating.com/showthread.php?p=20842#post20842

Cheers,
John
 
Gona order my kit end of the week. Can't wait to get started on this adventure. Looks to me like blue tint it is.

Thanks John for your testing and adviseing us on this outstanding procedure we can do at home.
 
Kit has arrived, now if I just knew what to do. Figured out how to mount the anodes, mix the stuff, and hang the items.

I do have your check list printed out John. What is the zink brightner for, I'm not doing zink? Just doing nuts, bolts and such.

What is second bucket for, distilled water wash?

Seems to me that it is hot enough out side that I will not need heaters but did get two of them and a controler for same.

There book/manual surely covers the world.

Need to get murtatic acid, duh second bucket for that stuff I guess?
 
Hi Jack,

You are zinc plating nuts, bolts and such so the zinc brightner gives a bright or shiny finish to the zinc plate. If you zinc plate without using a brightner then the finish is more of a dull gray. I used to use the Caswell zinc brightner until I found out about the Nitric acid dip which does the same thing but better. The clear chromate dip also has a slight brightner in the solution but not nearly as strong as the nitric acid.

The second bucket (in the Caswell kit) is for their SP Degreaser which you use hot. It does work but I opted to use simple green or purple industrial degreaser from Home Depot instead. For the degreasing and muriatic acid I just use smaller rectangular tupper ware type containers instead of buckets. I also degrease/dezinc my parts outside where I can use a brush and hose to wash them off without making a mess and to disperse the fumes from the muriatic acid. Page 103 in the manual has the equipment list for the Copy Cad/Zinc plating kit. I would read pages 102 -106 for the copy cad info and then adapt the procedure with my list. Try plating something simple like a piece of copper tube or plate.

Remember the prep of the part is very important. If you want a shiny plate the part must be shiny first. I use brass wire wheel on the bench grinder to "polish" the parts and degrease to make sure it passes the "water break test".

If you have some questions and want to talk of the phone pm me and I'll give you my phone number (although I am going to be gone for most of the day today).

Cheers,
John
 
Thanks John, think I got it. This will be a next weeks job as the wife will be out of town.

I will give it a shot before I ask for more help.

Thanks again.

Jack
 
Ok, have read pages 102- 106 very well. Also most of the rest of the manual and all these posts quite a few times.
Think I got it now, I was trying to make it too hard.
Hope my battery charger works as a power source, otherwise will need to rethink that portion.

Onward to shiney bits.
 
Seems to work well, however I must polish the bits a bit after they come out of the tank to make them bright.

But it is so easy and fast. Heck I can almost do the fastners as I need them it is so fast.

Going to try a nylon wheel brush to polish.

Boy am I impressed.

Edit: Oh, cook it longer it gets shiner. Wheeee.
 
Hi Jack,

Sounds like you are making great progress!

The main thing to remember is shiny in = shiny out. I get the shiniest results by polishing with a fine brass wire wheel just before a final degreasing. Also are you using the Nitric acid and the Clear "blue" chromate dips?

The longer in the tank the more build up of zinc. I let smaller bolts, nuts, screws go for about 10 minutes and larger parts for 20 to 30 minutes.

It is very handy to be able to zinc plate 'as you go'. Yesterday I was putting together all the hydraulic cylinders/calipers and discovered the brake/clutch master cylinder push rods were corroded. I quickly zinc plated them and baked them in the oven and was able to get everything installed.

Add some pictures when you have a chance.

Cheers,
John
 
Gee, mine seems to plate much faster maybe 5 min max. Wonder if I am getting it thick enough.
 
It starts plating almost immediately (watch the copper hang wire near the surface once you turn the power on). The manual states, 0.00025" plate thickness in 15 minutes, .0005" in 30 minutes and.001" in 60 minutes. I prefer to leave the parts in longer for more protection down the road.
 
John it seems to me that mine is preaty thick but then I don't put much in at a time. Maybe 6 nuts and 6 bolts. Seems to plate fast.

Remember most of my stuff started out very rusty and nasty so a really shinny surface is not possible.
 
I plated some more parts on Sunday. I had noticed the parts coming out of the plate tank with a darker grey look that was not completely removed with the nitric acid dip. I added a tablespoon of Zinc Brightener Additive (avail from Caswell) to the plate tank and within a minute the plating was shiny again. I think over time the brightener gets used up and since I'm going for a shinier finish it's necessary to replenish this ingredient occasionally. Here's a few pictures of parts fresh out of the drying oven.

zinc4.jpg
zinc5.jpg
zinc6.jpg
zinc8.jpg
 
surely do look nice John, wish I had a source for the acid.

But the system does work, and work well. Just glad that most of my stuff is nuts and bolts or painted black.
 
Will call P'cola. Thank you sir, chemicals of course.
 
Glad to see you are both getting on so well....

John, would you mind if i lifted any of these pictures for our website. They are excellent qualilty...
 
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