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Put the kits in the bugeye carbs. Just now bolted them back on and the front one leaks. Poured gas in the float bowl and the float floats. Used the 7/16 dowel and it appears the yoke is seating the float needle. When installing the kits there were small beveled washers that were hard to orient according to the manual diagram. Is it possible I reversed those and gas is leaking past them? It's really hard to tell where the leak is. Gas just runs out the bottom from someplace. What would you do?
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carb rebuilds
- Thread starter rossco
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jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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Ok here ya go.
They can be rebuilt without removeing from car. I would not remove.
However I would remove the dome and the drop piston with needle valve.
Then I would remove the whole darn yoke and all the bits around it which includes the seat, etc.
Take a close look and see what you screwed up.
Sure wish you were here. we would have it fixed in 15 min.
They can be rebuilt without removeing from car. I would not remove.
However I would remove the dome and the drop piston with needle valve.
Then I would remove the whole darn yoke and all the bits around it which includes the seat, etc.
Take a close look and see what you screwed up.
Sure wish you were here. we would have it fixed in 15 min.
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Should not be difficult. But I do understand the frustration till you find it.
Might it be a screwed up large cork gasket on the bottom nut??
Seems to me it must be that or the two small cork gaskets inside are not installed right.
Get the book out and check check check.
Dum idea, take the one from the front and put on rear and see if leaking stops then you know you got a good example.
I must have had mine apart many times. Last time I polished the valve seat tubes, the ones with the yoke on them to make em real smooth so they would not mess up cork seals.
Might it be a screwed up large cork gasket on the bottom nut??
Seems to me it must be that or the two small cork gaskets inside are not installed right.
Get the book out and check check check.
Dum idea, take the one from the front and put on rear and see if leaking stops then you know you got a good example.
I must have had mine apart many times. Last time I polished the valve seat tubes, the ones with the yoke on them to make em real smooth so they would not mess up cork seals.
The book says to coat spacer to heat shield gaskets w/sealer. Both of my permatex sealents say not for exposure to gasolene. Is there a special sealent?
I'm still leaking. Both carbs on the bench. I'll go through the drill again but I can't find anything that's a tipoff. Any more ideas? Jack. the tubes are pristine. I don't think I can prepare them any better. I'm wondering if my float adjustments are bad. The book says 7/16 dowel. Is that what you get?
I'm still leaking. Both carbs on the bench. I'll go through the drill again but I can't find anything that's a tipoff. Any more ideas? Jack. the tubes are pristine. I don't think I can prepare them any better. I'm wondering if my float adjustments are bad. The book says 7/16 dowel. Is that what you get?
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
7/16 is correct.
There are only two places fuel can run from carbs.
1. The two rubber gaskets that attach the float chamber to the carb.
2. The actual needle valve seat and choke (jet assembly)
Hope you have a BE shop manual. Page D.8 has an excellent cut away.
Hynes manual is of a H2 carb.
Jet assembly:
Gland washers ar what the small cork washers are called top one taper is up, bottom one taper is down. These are to seat the spring on which protects the cork from the spring. The brass gland washer goes on the bottom of the top one and the top of the bottom one.
The other large cork washer is called a sealing washer and has a large bevelled washer under it.
Float bowl assembly is self evident.
Use permatex form a gasket, blue. Just a wipe of it should be enough.
Carbs on bench. float bowl upright. Put about 1/2 inch of fuel in float bowl, Does it leak, where?? Add another 1/2 inch. leak, where? etc etc till full and or you have leak.
REPORT
There are only two places fuel can run from carbs.
1. The two rubber gaskets that attach the float chamber to the carb.
2. The actual needle valve seat and choke (jet assembly)
Hope you have a BE shop manual. Page D.8 has an excellent cut away.
Hynes manual is of a H2 carb.
Jet assembly:
Gland washers ar what the small cork washers are called top one taper is up, bottom one taper is down. These are to seat the spring on which protects the cork from the spring. The brass gland washer goes on the bottom of the top one and the top of the bottom one.
The other large cork washer is called a sealing washer and has a large bevelled washer under it.
Float bowl assembly is self evident.
Use permatex form a gasket, blue. Just a wipe of it should be enough.
Carbs on bench. float bowl upright. Put about 1/2 inch of fuel in float bowl, Does it leak, where?? Add another 1/2 inch. leak, where? etc etc till full and or you have leak.
REPORT
Good tips, Jack. The bench test sounds good. I got a racing formula sealent called universal blue by permatex. Says it's resistant to fuels, oil, etc. Supposed to handle temp variations. By the way, I've got all kinds of pictures; just gotta be smarter than the carbs. With your help I'll get it.
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Aye, i think so. Easy check to see if float valve works.
It of course is not closing. Check float, does it float, lol
If you push up with your finger does it really close or is it jamed open somehow?
Now at least you know where the leak is comming from. Stick a tube in that hole and squirt with carb cleaner or something and see where it comes out.
It of course is not closing. Check float, does it float, lol
If you push up with your finger does it really close or is it jamed open somehow?
Now at least you know where the leak is comming from. Stick a tube in that hole and squirt with carb cleaner or something and see where it comes out.