car stalls when hot

[BUCKEYE_BOB]

My 76 B after it warms up will stall at stop lights or any time I stop. It's ok during continuous driving. I did notice that there was only a little of the heat shield left so I replaced it. This seemed to help a little because now I can restart the car when it's hot. I have a Z S carb with a manual choke. The fuel filter stays full of gas when it stalls. It almost seems like the carb is getting too hot causeing vapor lock. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks

 

[iggy]

Suggestions:
Check the idle speed setting. Fuel in the filter doesn't mean fuel in the bowl, so check that out. Check the choke linkage and make sure it is fully off in the off position. Check the condition of your spark plugs and see if it's running rich or lean.
Hope this helps.

|edit:|
Oh wait... and if your car has some kind of EGR, make sure that isn't stuck open.

[ 08-17-2003: Message edited by: iggy ]</p>

 

[Naomi]

Hey Iggy, what's you doing in this neighborhood? By the way, you advice for the question is excellent, as usual!

 

[Bret]

This is a notorious problem with the ZS single carburetor set-up.

My Suggestions:
ZS Carburetor: Gaskets & check the Diaphragm for tears.

Manifold leaks: A quick test is to spray some carburetor cleaner around the manifold while the engine is idling. Weak points are the manifold & carburetor gaskets.

Vacuum lines: This is another possibility for idling problems. Replace any that are cracked or look suspect.

Also if you still have the Smog pump take a look at the right angle pipe from the Gulp valve to the manifold. This is a press fit and can leak.

There might be more but these are main issues I found on my 78B when I first picked her up and traced many of my problems to a re-used manifold gasket and some cracked vacuum lines.

Good luck,

[ 08-17-2003: Message edited by: Bret ]</p>

 

[Guest]

also it should have a heat shield

 

[BUCKEYE_BOB]

Hey guys, thanks for all the information. I ended up rebuilding the carbon canister. Thanks Chuck for the Shade tree MG. com Tech area. This seemed to keep the car running. Know i'm gong to use the rest of your suggestions and hopefully get her running well. Does anyone know af a web site that has pictures of what a 1976 engine room should look like? Not sure if all the hose routing are done correctly by the DPO. Not a lot of trust since when I installed a new fuel pump I found one of the wires had been broken and just twisted back togather and tape put over the twist. Well Thanks again Bob

 

[Guest]

don't thank me, thank Gerry, Wray, and Kim. I'm just the publisher

 

[BUCKEYE_BOB]

Thanks Gerry, Wray and Kim.
Bob

 

[iggy]

Hiya Naomi...
I lurk here,
Don't post as often as 'over there'

 

[Gary Lloyd]

I was told that the other reason for that is valves set too tight!!

 

[tony barnhill]

Sounds like the gas is heating up & boiling...I'd check the catalytic converter to see if its partially plugged & I'd check the heat shield to see if the padding is still there or burnt & I'd check the sensor built into the heat shield spacer - the one with the electrical plug on the side of the bulb

 

[Gary Lloyd]

I don't doubt that is the problem as Chuck already said, and I was just giving another option!! If the heat shield is intact, maybe it would be wise to check the valves!! As they say, when you do a major tune up, start by setting the valves!! A couple of thou can make a difference!!

 

[BUCKEYE_BOB]

Thanks again, its supposed to start raining again this week. This will give me an excuse to work on the B.