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I have already tried puller with lots or pressure----used a little heat around sproket, dont want to beat on the end of the puller too much-- as the crank is already installed. Now W H A T???? the bushing, slinger and gear are all together and none of them are coming loose, Help
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Cant remove crank sproket???????
- Thread starter ALLAN
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trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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Allan, try going the other way slightly, just to brake it loose. You can use a large socket, if you have one that big or a pipe, just so you can get a all around pressure on it, don't bang it too hard. Wayne
Thanks----that worked
It worked---only had about .010" to drive it back but it worked. It hung up 3 more times as it came forward so I had to drive it back each time to get it loose, then it was 1/8" at a time as it would pop and then I would have to get another bite with the puller, It took about 1 1/2 hr. and I had to talk to it alot!!! There is a groove on the bushing that the seal rides on--is that a machined groove or worn from the seal??
It worked---only had about .010" to drive it back but it worked. It hung up 3 more times as it came forward so I had to drive it back each time to get it loose, then it was 1/8" at a time as it would pop and then I would have to get another bite with the puller, It took about 1 1/2 hr. and I had to talk to it alot!!! There is a groove on the bushing that the seal rides on--is that a machined groove or worn from the seal??
Banjo
Yoda
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Re: Thanks----that worked
Thats worn in from the seal. If not fixed it will leak. Either replace the pully (like that's an option) or look into a "speedy sleeve". That is a thin ring of metal that fits snugly over the old surface, making a new one. If Moss dosen't offer it, you should be able to size one up at the local parts store.
Thats worn in from the seal. If not fixed it will leak. Either replace the pully (like that's an option) or look into a "speedy sleeve". That is a thin ring of metal that fits snugly over the old surface, making a new one. If Moss dosen't offer it, you should be able to size one up at the local parts store.
Re: Thanks
Hello Allan,
if the groove is not central then, as you say, just reverse it. Otherwise replace the seal but do not drive it fully home in the chain cover. If you can get the seal running on an unworn part of the sleeve it should be OK. Oil the sleeve when you fit the chain cover, loosely fit all the screws\nuts etc, turn the engine a few times then tighten the cover down.
Good luck,
Alec
Hello Allan,
if the groove is not central then, as you say, just reverse it. Otherwise replace the seal but do not drive it fully home in the chain cover. If you can get the seal running on an unworn part of the sleeve it should be OK. Oil the sleeve when you fit the chain cover, loosely fit all the screws\nuts etc, turn the engine a few times then tighten the cover down.
Good luck,
Alec
G
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Re: Thanks
Allan, not sure that the oil seal sleeve is reverseable in that the back-side bevel is designed to engage for future removal. New ones are available and relatively inexpensive. Surely put a new spring-loaded seal for the chain cover in, this is cheap insurance. Aren't SpeediSleaves designed to go over shafts - how would they fit over a keyed shaft? You are right that TRF has all this new. Just replaced them all. There is a firm out there were you live that will rebuild your pulley, about $90 if interested call Dave at TRF.
Bill
Allan, not sure that the oil seal sleeve is reverseable in that the back-side bevel is designed to engage for future removal. New ones are available and relatively inexpensive. Surely put a new spring-loaded seal for the chain cover in, this is cheap insurance. Aren't SpeediSleaves designed to go over shafts - how would they fit over a keyed shaft? You are right that TRF has all this new. Just replaced them all. There is a firm out there were you live that will rebuild your pulley, about $90 if interested call Dave at TRF.
Bill
Sorry dont have any pictures, but if you look at pictures in a repair manual that would give you the idea. When you get to a picture that shows the timing cover off and a view of the timing gear--just picture trying to remove the small crank gear with a gear puller, if its stuck on then you will have to go through what I did (above). I ended up ordering the new spacer that the oil seal rides on.
Glad you got the things apart. Just a FYI, but I have had trouble with things being stuck and had the puller cranked down very tight. What seems to work well is a sharp blow to the stuck part with a hammer, just be carefull, the puller can really jump when things come loose.
trfourtune
Jedi Knight
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worn grove in bushing? i've had a local shop repair this type of problem in my other vehicles (worn axle at seal)by having the surface built up again by spray welding and then ground down. this can give a harder, better surface and you don't have to mess with those sleeves. a much more permanent fix. any shaft worn at the seal can be repaired this way.
rob
rob
bobh
Jedi Warrior
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A little side information;
Speedy Sleeve is a product made by Chicago Rawhide. If you ever need a seal for a shaft you may want to contact them. In a previous life I used their wiping seals on a manual leveling system on an optical tracking platform for NASA.
It appears that CR is now part of SKF. You can see their Speedy Sleeve info here;
https://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/speedi_sleeves.htm
Speedy Sleeve is a product made by Chicago Rawhide. If you ever need a seal for a shaft you may want to contact them. In a previous life I used their wiping seals on a manual leveling system on an optical tracking platform for NASA.
It appears that CR is now part of SKF. You can see their Speedy Sleeve info here;
https://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/speedi_sleeves.htm