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Calculating Front Hub End-Play

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RAC68 said:
Steve/All,

The shim kit from Moss indicates BJ8s from 2704 and my BJ8 is prior. I was also told the MGB shims would work for my BJ8P1. Does anyone know if that is true and which Kit I should order?

Thanks,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
Click to expand...

The only shim kit Moss shows for the MGB/C has the same PN as the late BJ8 kit.

Suggest calling British Car Specialists.

Looking at the prices of the individual early-style shims vs the late-BJ8-style -- one could assume they're so expensive because of limited use.
 
I always admire the way John Twist (?) makes things look simple. His videos are great for our cars as they are simular enough to Healeys. He must have over a hundred how to videos on MGs. I think his company is University Motors if you want to search the Web.
TH
 
Ray,
If you have removed the .005 him and there is now a "slight amount of drag", I would think that it is not turning "freely" as the manual says it should. As for my recommendation to use a dial indicator....I don't use one myself when I do it as I have acquired a good feel for these things over the years. But, now that you have asked....I would put it on a heavy chunk of steel (these things have magnetic bases) and put that on top of a big chunk of wood in front of your hub. Then move the hub in and out and read the dial.
The big problem today is that you cannot buy the thin shims that you need to get the correct end-play on the 100-6s and early 3000s. I do have a few that I will be willing to sell. Send me a PM if interested.
The reason that the smaller BJ8 shims are so readily available is because they are the same size as Sprite shims, if I am not mistaken.
 
AH Spares are still selling a range of shims inc. 0.003" and 0.005" for BN2 to early BJ8 for circa Ā£1.30 ea
 
Hi all,

Rich thanks for offering to sell me the shims. I really appreciate it and may have to take you up on it if this supply turns out to be a non-starter.

Bob mentioned "McMaster.com" and I took one of the shims to measure and select an assortment set. Since my car is a Pre-BJ8P2, the shim size is as all the other big Healeys. I was trying to measure the OD and ID of the shim and didn't seem to be on the money at all. I would appreciate your verification of size as the nearest set to my measurements in the McMaster catalogue have an (OD = 1-3/8" and ID = 7/8"). They have an assortment of 19 piece steel shims assortment for $13.58 plus tax and shipping. Again, my shim measurement does not exactly match the OD and ID for the shim set from McMaster but comes close and I would like validation that I am good to order.

Thanks again to all, I never thought this would turn out to be such a pain...but then its a Healey,

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
RAC68 said:
Hi all,

Rich thanks for offering to sell me the shims. I really appreciate it and may have to take you up on it if this supply turns out to be a non-starter.

Bob mentioned "McMaster.com" and I took one of the shims to measure and select an assortment set. Since my car is a Pre-BJ8P2, the shim size is as all the other big Healeys. I was trying to measure the OD and ID of the shim and didn't seem to be on the money at all. I would appreciate your verification of size as the nearest set to my measurements in the McMaster catalogue have an (OD = 1-3/8" and ID = 7/8"). They have an assortment of 19 piece steel shims assortment for $13.58 plus tax and shipping. Again, my shim measurement does not exactly match the OD and ID for the shim set from McMaster but comes close and I would like validation that I am good to order.

Thanks again to all, I never thought this would turn out to be such a pain...but then its a Healey,

Ray (64BJ8P1)
Click to expand...

I just measured my spare old-style swivel axles and the 7/8" x 1-3/8" shims will indeed work. I measured the axle adjacent to the distance piece at 7/8" D and the face of the distance piece at 1-1/4" OD, but the extra 1/16" around the periphery shouldn't make any difference. Bet you could shim both sides with one of these kits.

Copied from McMC's web site:

19-Piece Plain Steel Shim Assortments

Include one each of these thicknesses: 0.001", 0.0015", 0.002", 0.003", 0.004", 0.005", 0.006", 0.007", 0.008", 0.010", 0.012", 0.015", 0.020", 0.025", 0.031", 0.047", 0.062", 0.093", and 0.125".

IDODEach
7/8"1 3/8"3088A935$13.58

PS - the PN is a link to the ordering page.
 
Thanks Steve, and all, for your knowledge and assistance. It was a task I never expected to have any difficulty with .... but, as always, you guys came through.

All the best to all,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
This works:

IMG_2632.jpg


IMG_2629.jpg


IMG_2630.jpg


Clearly, with .006" endfloat, I could remove either a .005" shim, or maybe two (2) .003" shims, depending on what's in the stack. Not going to get into it with anybody about the procedure or the values, as this subject has already been beaten to death. Just showing one (1) possible way to mount the dial indicator__you could clamp it to the caliper or the upper trunion to read on the hub itself, but this way is pretty simple and would also work on a Healey fitted with drum brakes in the front.

Clamped to a tie-rod:

IMG_7507.jpg


And a few final prerequisite shots, for when somebody searches the subject in the future and asks "what's a shim?"

IMG_7500.jpg


IMG_7502.jpg


IMG_7498.jpg
 
Hey Randy,
just curious, to start the process what size and number of shims do you place on the stub axle? That is before you take your first measurement.
Lin
 
Hi All,

The pictures put everything in perspective. Thanks Randy.

This afternoon I received the package of assorted shims and the overall diameter of 1 3/8" fell extremely close to the outer roller cage but cleared by a whisker. After cleaning all the grease and setting the gauge per Randy's pictures, I added the original 0.005 to the 0.0295 original to recreate the original access end-float. The end-float registered 0.0035 with great difficulty as it kept moving (bad technique I guess). Removing the 0.005, I reinstalled a 0.0035 and tightened up the setup. This time the gauge danced around Zero and the everything turned freely. After repacking the bearings and installation of all parts, I had to slightly exceed the recommended torque max of 70 Lbs. to align for the split pin. All turned smoothly and free at 80 Lbs of torque.

I am happy this messy job is over and all seems well. Tomorrow I will take the car out for a drive and also bring it on the highway for some high speed testing. Although the McMaster shim assortment had the correct ID, the OD of the thicker shims would require some trimming to fit with sufficient clearance. Since I had already filled the center of the bearing with the original 0.0295 shim, clearance was not a major issue or encumbrance.

Thanks all for your patience and help.

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
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