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Bugeye ignition and light switch

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longbridgehealey

longbridgehealey

Obi Wan
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My headlights are flickering on and off, and I've traced the problem to a red wire that enters the back of the light/ignition switch. The problem is the whole area I'd wrapped in black electricians tape, so I can't really see anything. I've never removed this unit before, but there appears to be a circular clip around the read of the unit. If I loosen this, how does the whole thing come out-do I separate the rear unit from the black circular switch, and if so, how? It's all so old and fragile that I don't want to make it any worse than it is!
thanks! :smile:

larry
 
You pop that clip off the back, and the whole switch comes out the front.
 
OK, thanks! It's such a mess back there that I didn't want to start in not knowing the plan!
 
Once you pop the clip off the back you can pull the whole switch and the wiring through the hole and disconnect the 4 wires on the back of the switch. This is easier than trying to do on your back lying underneath the dash. The black ring is held in place by a spring loaded pin that can be pushed in with a small screwdriver. The cylinder lock can also be removed easily. You can buy a repro switch from Moss or look on ebay for NOS which run between $50-$90. If you by a NOS switch make sure to put a meter on it before going through the hassle of installing the part. When you install the new switch you can use the clip that comes with the part (putting the nut on the clip and tighening under the dash is a pain) you can alternatively use a hose clamp which is easier to install and will hold the switch in place more firmly.
 
Sounds good. I'm going to remove it tomorrow, and decide if I need any new parts, or just rewire. All of the black tape worries me:smile:
 
60Bugeyefan said:
This is easier than trying to do on your back lying underneath the dash.
Click to expand...

What, and remove all the fun of working on a Bugeye? :grin:

IMG_0004_2.jpg

Not working on the dash in this pic, just flip 180* for underdash work...
 
And disconnect the battery before you start working under there.
 
:smile:
 
If I may suggest, don't use electrical tape in automotive wiring. It quickly becomes a mess, as I think you are discovering, then dries up and comes off. Use heat-shrink tubing to cover wire connections, and solder them or use crimp connections to join wires to each other or to eyelets or spade lugs or things like that. You'll end up with a much neater and safer job, which will last.
 
If its the switch, they are not too hard to take apart and you may be able to repair it. I have a couple of "parts" switches somewhere that I was always going to combine into one good one.

Kurt.
 
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