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Bugeye front suspension

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Hey guys, thanks! Now I think I've got it.

The different terms can get mixed up, eg. fulcrum pin, swivel pin (aka kingpin), etc.
Referring to the numbered exploded view helps a lot.
And I didn't notice that #19 "wedge pin" over on the kingpin part of the diagram.

We'll see how it goes.

Fred
 
Mostly disassembled this evening.
One issue I discovered is that the lever shock pinch bolt is also a "wedge" bolt, ie. there is a notch in top fulcrum pin that the pinch bolt crosses through so that you can't remove the pin unless you completely remove the pinch bolt. I thought you could just loosen it to release the "pinch" compression. After pounding on in a bunch of times, I finally realized it.

Now everything is apart except the inner A arm fulcrum pins are stuck. I pound and pound and the hammer just bounces.
Is there any trick to this?

Fred
 
Fred, There are screw threads on those fulcrum pins. Dig out the grease that is in there and you'll see a slot for your biggest screwdriver to fit and hopefully twist out and unscrew the fulcrum pins. If you can't get it loose after driving out the wedge pin, it may need to be cut out. Again the swivel pin and new fulcrum pin come in the Major suspension Kit.Cutting can be with a Sawzall or a Cutting Wheel on an angle grinder. I found the cutting wheel to work better and even if you don't have an Angle Grinder a trip to HF and $25 gets you everything you need.
 
Fred, Those Inner A Arm Mounts rust in the bushing. Lots of PB Blaster for a few days and if that doesn't work then a Sawzall is your friend. Place the blade between the inner mount and the wishbone and carefully cut straight through. There is room in there to cut through the rubber bushing and the metal collar around the bolt that has rusted together. Usually you need to make a cut on each side of the A Arm, 4 in all to get it loose. Again cut carefully the bolt #8, not the mounting ears. Those bolts and bushings are part of the Major Suspension Kit.
 
No luck with the inner a arm bushings/pins tonight. I'll let 'em soak with PB blaster another few days, then get out the sawzall or cutting wheels, as Jim suggests.

I did get the swivel pin dismantled and found the reason for the "plugged" grease fitting.
Turns out the top bushing was installed BACKWARDS by P.O.
The bushing has a hole that looks like it should line up to the grease fitting hole, but it is instead on the opposite side. I would never have gotten any grease through. I think I can take out the zerk and drill a hole. Not sure if I'm going to get new bushes pressed in yet since these are not worn. I think they were replaced (backwards) by a PO doing a restoration that he never finished, so I suspect these have never been on the road.

Fred
 
Fred,

If indeed these have never been on the road then you are in luck.In fact if that is the case the fulcrum pin can likely be unscrewed. Course if it was stored outside the rust caused by being over ground may be an entirely different issue. Good luck on this one Fred.
 
Do you by chance have an impact screwdriver? If not, for $10 you might budge the fulcrum pin with it.
 
I don't think I was too clear.
I did get the fulcrum pin unscrewed and the wear seems minimal.
The stubborn pins I've not been able to get out are the INNER paired pins where the a arm attaches to the chassis. #8 on the moss diagram. These pins are just driven out, but I think they are rusted to the inner metal bushings.

By the way, is it a big deal to remove the hub. I can't get the back plate off to sandblast and paint without taking off the hub. However this looks like it may take a shop press and hub puller, neither of which I have currently.

Fred
 
Fred,

A Sawzall is needed to get those # 8 Pins removed at this point if they are rusted, is the only way to go. By cutting between the frame suport mount and the wishbone there is about an 1/8" gap the Sawzall blade can fit in and be guided by the frame suport mount and the wishbone and will cut cleanly between the two. You don't want to be bending the crap out of those frame mounts as that is what holds on your entire front suspension. Once cut through the wishbone will pull off and those cut pieces will fall out.

Congrats on getting the fulcrum pin out. That's usually the hardest part of this job. Use plenty of lube when you reinstall and carefully work the fulcrum pin in and out to make sure all of the crud is out of the threads before reassembly. Lots of debrise usually in there and this is the "bearing surface" that your suspension is riding on.
 
Not a big deal to remove the hub. It will just lift off after the spring is out.
 
Jack:
what spring?
The hub looks like is held on by a large castellated nut, and then press fit inner and outer bearings.
I haven't taken the nut off the spindle yet, but I assume I'll need a puller.
Fred
 
Noop, no puller required but when the spindle is removed from the fitting under the castle nut you best be ready to let the spring down on a jack slowly.

If I did not make any sense lets start at the top. Tell me pls.

"what spring" the big one on the front suspension, there are two one on each side.
 
Oh, I had already removed the coil springs.

So, that's great if the hub just slides off.

The workshop manual shows a "special tool" that looks like a gear puller. I'll give it a go tonight.

Fred
 
Never owned a special tool so I guess it is not needed. lol
 
TulsaFred said:
Oh, I had already removed the coil springs.

So, that's great if the hub just slides off.

The workshop manual shows a "special tool" that looks like a gear puller. I'll give it a go tonight.

Fred
Click to expand...

It's a couple of years but i made a "special tool" with a box end wrench end on a wheel stud, laid across, other end wedged under a big washer and tightened the nuts on the studs - popped right off. IIRC the brake hub reversed does the same thing.
 
Fred: If you have not removed the hubs and your wheel bearings are OK I would NOT remove them. The bearings are almost always ruined and are getting impossible to find. That is ones that are quality. The ones the usual suspects are selling are almost as loose as worn out ones when you buy them and I doubt they will last. You can fit tapered bearings but they are a can of worms as well.

Kurt.
 
Hub just came right off, like Jack said.

Workshop manual says requires Service Tool 18G 146. (see fig K8 in the manual).

Strange.

Anyway, bead blasted my backplate and it looks like new, except for some pitting.

Also, after another day soaking with PB blaster and judicious use of force, I got the A arm off without having to cut. It'll go in the blaster next.

Then I'll try my hand at powder coating them, along with my coil springs.

Thanks for the help
Fred
 
So Fred after now that you've gotten it all apart, have you considered swapping those front drums for a set of swivel axles and some front disc brakes. One of those while I've got it apart...
 
Jim,
I have thought about it, in fact I have a set of swivel axles from a disc brake car. I would need swivel pins and hubs from a disc brake car and rotors of course. Then I would need the swivel axles rebushed and reamed, probably by a pro.
I'm not sure it's really worth it, as I've never had a problem with drums. I think the biggest advantage of disc brakes is less fade when they get hot. This may be important for competition driving or high intensity street driving. I will use the bugeye for some occasional weekend fun, but not really any kind of aggressive driving.
What do you think?
Fred
 
i think you are fine they way you are - put it back together and drive!
 
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