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TR4/4A BRG Paint code [again]
- Thread starter shoopal
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I come up with Dupont 43912. Perhaps PPG can cross that.
https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1976&con=y&make=Triumph&rows=50
https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?year=1976&con=y&make=Triumph&rows=50
Hey Randall
You really do have all the answers. Unfortunately PPG does not have a cross reference for 42487 in the Envirobase (water based) line.
We are going to try something close which is Jaguar BRG and add a little blue.
We are making up some test samples and trying it out on spare sheet metal.
If any one is interested, I'll post the formula
Breaking News: PPG does cross reference 42487 in their Deltron DVC (2 stage) and Concept (single stage) lines
They are emailing me the formulas which I will faithfully pass on.
Al Shoop
You really do have all the answers. Unfortunately PPG does not have a cross reference for 42487 in the Envirobase (water based) line.
We are going to try something close which is Jaguar BRG and add a little blue.
We are making up some test samples and trying it out on spare sheet metal.
If any one is interested, I'll post the formula
Breaking News: PPG does cross reference 42487 in their Deltron DVC (2 stage) and Concept (single stage) lines
They are emailing me the formulas which I will faithfully pass on.
Al Shoop
CJD
Yoda
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CJD
Yoda
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Here is a cross reference showing a chip...
https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorc...ph&smodel=&sname=British Racing Green&rows=50
I like it...been looking for a darker BRG for my build! Is the enviro-junk required in New York? I love the laquer based DBC. I quit using water colors in grade school.
https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorc...ph&smodel=&sname=British Racing Green&rows=50
I like it...been looking for a darker BRG for my build! Is the enviro-junk required in New York? I love the laquer based DBC. I quit using water colors in grade school.
No NY restrictions. It's just that the body shop is set up to mix up Envirobase but they can buy DBC from a local supplier. 45102 is the number that I have been looking up but no cross-ref for envirobase. I'm going to order up a small quantity of the DBC to see what kind of match it is.
OK. Tried the samples. DCC on top, DBC on bottom
The DCC (single stage ) was the closest to the original "75". The DBC base coat/ clear coat was not quite as dark and closer to the "25" code . Also attached is the formula from the Allard car which is a pretty snazzy car but somewhere in between the other two.
I have decided to go with the DCC formula. The estimate cost is $500 / gallon which is probably way more than I need even including the interior.
Good luck every one.
The DCC (single stage ) was the closest to the original "75". The DBC base coat/ clear coat was not quite as dark and closer to the "25" code . Also attached is the formula from the Allard car which is a pretty snazzy car but somewhere in between the other two.
I have decided to go with the DCC formula. The estimate cost is $500 / gallon which is probably way more than I need even including the interior.
Good luck every one.
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CJD
Yoda
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The DBC has an olive tone to it. Of the 2, I agree, the DCC looks the most accurate.
Usually the 2 types should look identical, with the clear coat giving the DBC a better gloss...and much more durable shine. I would imagine they have trouble mixing exactly with such small samples. I used to use paint scales to balance engine parts as they are the most precise scales I have ever found. The smaller the paint sample they mix, the more difference a small mix error makes.
The DCC is most popular in trunks and engine bays, where it is difficult to uniformly spray the clear back over the base.
For planning, my TR3, painting the entire tub and all the back sides of the wings, bonnet, apron, etc., it took 1-1/2 gallon of the DBC. Every time I pay $2k just for the paint on a restoration, I think of my Old Man, who used to put $100 MAACO paint jobs on all his cars. Of course, his paint looked good for a month. Modern Urethanes last decades.
Usually the 2 types should look identical, with the clear coat giving the DBC a better gloss...and much more durable shine. I would imagine they have trouble mixing exactly with such small samples. I used to use paint scales to balance engine parts as they are the most precise scales I have ever found. The smaller the paint sample they mix, the more difference a small mix error makes.
The DCC is most popular in trunks and engine bays, where it is difficult to uniformly spray the clear back over the base.
For planning, my TR3, painting the entire tub and all the back sides of the wings, bonnet, apron, etc., it took 1-1/2 gallon of the DBC. Every time I pay $2k just for the paint on a restoration, I think of my Old Man, who used to put $100 MAACO paint jobs on all his cars. Of course, his paint looked good for a month. Modern Urethanes last decades.
Good info. By the way is your estimate of 1 1/2 gallons for your TR3 including the reducer and hardener? They recommended 3 qts paint, 1 1/2 qt reducer and 1 qt hardener totaling 5 1/2 qts, 1/2 qt less than your estimate. For reference, that entire order comes to $630 including tax
CJD
Yoda
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No, the 1-1/2 gallon was just the DBC! But, that was painting every square inch of the body, inside and out, and the DBC does not get hardener. For most cars I have done, a gallon is about right, with just enough left over for later touch-ups. The TR3 has a lot of removable panels that ran up my total the extra half gallon.
Since you are using the DCC...the hardener does increase the volume to make an even gallon, which should be pretty close. You can reduce what you need a bit by using a primer that compliments your color...in your case using a black primer instead of light grey. Also, most paint shops charge almost the same to mix a gallon of color as they do for 3 quarts. It may be worth asking them the price for a gallon of the color. You wouldn't have to purchase the reducer and hardener unless you needed it later.
Since you are using the DCC...the hardener does increase the volume to make an even gallon, which should be pretty close. You can reduce what you need a bit by using a primer that compliments your color...in your case using a black primer instead of light grey. Also, most paint shops charge almost the same to mix a gallon of color as they do for 3 quarts. It may be worth asking them the price for a gallon of the color. You wouldn't have to purchase the reducer and hardener unless you needed it later.