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Brake union Switch Triple Master HELP!!!!

blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
Offline
Okay, so my master cyl is leaking which is fine by me. Just a good excuse to set the car up for a triple master setup with adjustable bias. Got all the parts on the way via Santa Claus including a 10lb rp valve for the rear. Heres my question, I am exploring the various fittings I will need to purchase.

This warning swith block. Does anyone know if this serves any other purpose? Will it have any negative effect on the brake bias system, ie; does this also serve as a poportioning valve of sorts or is this simply a splitter with a warning switch?

mgbrakeuniun.jpg


My reason for asking is obviously this is in a hard to reach location now that everything is installed. Just need to know if it should come out or if its fine to leave in with the seperate master cyl.
 

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
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All it does is sense a difference in pressure from front and rear brake systems (to activate a warning light). Nothing else.

You can delete it.
My Spridget still has one, but if I put in new lines, it's going.

I'm looking at creating a new hanging pedal system for my A-35 (it has floor mounted pedals) and I've been looking at the Tilton bias setup. Expensive!
 
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blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
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I went with the wilwood setup. (Very similar.) but the pedals were slightly shorter than the tilton. I'd like to leave that pressure switch in if possible just cause all the lines are already new and I'd have a real tough time squeezing a flare tool in that spot to redo the one break line that runs over to the pass side. I'd have to get a tee of sorts to replace it anyway, so if it dont hurt nothing it'll stay. Ill shoot you some pics of the wilwood setup after its all mocked up.
 

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
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Yeah, if you've got new lines, leave it in. It won't hurt anything.

I'm going to snoop around the local junkyard and see if I can find a set of pedals in a modern car that'll work. Probably just use a regular dual-master cylinder...no bias bar.
 
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Here's one I built a few years ago, the key is to level out the cylinder, if you mount them to the original footbox everyhting sets at angle, including the fluid in the cylinders. Under the aluminum tinwork is a mounting structure for the pedal assembly, made form small square tube and flat bar. On the next one i buiild i've ben thinking about going with .125" aluminum and building structure for the pedal assembly to bolt to and the whole deal bolt to the footbox, so if i ever need to remove it, i could fairly easily, also make removeable acess panel on the side of the footboxes for working acess thaere, since my front ends are always ame to be removeable. Just thinking outloud :smile:
 

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blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
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thanks for the pic hap. i seen an old post you made of something simialr or maybe it was this in its raw state. Ive got an idea in my head ofthe layout. Hust need all the bits to see what lines up where.
 
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