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Brake Master Cylinder

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M

Mr_Roil_T

Freshman Member
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Hello and thanks for the warm welcome. New member. I have been viewing posts regarding brakes and the master cylinder and I am seeking opinions. First, you should know my level of mechanical ability. Minimal. Good typist, though. As mentioned in my New Member post, Ignorance and Bravery are often closely linked. A new adventure has begun.

My wife's 74 Midget won't stop. It appears to be the master cylinder. No pedal at all. No visible leaks anywhere. With the cap off the MC, pumping the brake barely disturbs the fluid in the MC. Any other tests needed to confirm?

Assuming it is the master cylinder, is this something a novice should try rebuilding or should I have it rebuilt by a pro or should I replace. Long term goal for the car is a complete restoration though it is driveable now. Restoration won't happen for a year or two at the earliest.

Thanks for your help.
 
When you were young did you build any models? planes, railroads, etc. Do you do any household repairs?

Trying to get a rough gauge of your mechanical experiences.
 
Simplest solution: replacement. Cheapest solution: rebuild.
 
The Lockheed master cylinder rebuild is not for the faint of heart. Skill/Experience level is Med-High. Special tools required. Buy a new one. The PITA just aint worth it, and your life depends on it.

BTDT
mark
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
I had my brakes (entire system) rebuilt / replaced by a pro. Compared to modern vehicles that have power assisted ABS and all that stuff, it's not something I felt comfortable attempting when a professional rebuild wasn't that expensive, and the difference is amazing.
If it were my good lady driving my midget, I'd get new stuff checked by a pro at the very least, you only get one shot at stopping when you need to.

BTW, it's nice to have someone else here with a similar mechanical skill level to me!
 
Good point, Mark. The other consideration is if the M/C has sat any length of time and fluid not changed regularly, there are bound to be pits in the bore necessitating a replacement anyway. Not worth the agro for a novice wrench.
 
Thanks all. Sorry it took me so long to check back. Had a bear get into the trash overnight and he spread it all over the woods.

Ron, I fixed washing machines, radios, etc. and I built the house we live in...but very little automotive stuff. I have basic mechanics tools but nothing too specialized.

Westfield, Silent, Baz & Dr, I am thinking this is a job for professionals. Money is always a consideration but, fortunately, it is not the major consideration. And, when it comes down to it, I'd rather drive the car than work on it. If I do it, it'll be at least a couple of weeks before I have time to finish. If a pro does it, I can have the car back sooner...and with the confidence that all is OK. Thanks for your responses.

I just don't want to end up being somebody who 'rebuilt a '74 Midget' by paying somebody else to do all the work. In this case, though, I think it makes sense to get 'er to the shop.
 
While I wouldn't suggest a novice rebuild a MC, it is certainly possible for a novice to replace it themselves with a new/rebuilt unit.
 
That's true.
 
My 67 GT was a piece of cake. I took a 72 Midget MC apart and that was a PITA. Gotta have faith in your work. Mine work and I put it to the test last week. screech!!!
 
Okay, there are a two secerts to rebuilding the master the knowing of which make a rebuild a piece of cake.

Secret the first: find the a pair of needle nose pliers witht he longest, thinest noses you can find. Grand said noses so that they are as thin as can be without being brittle. Finally, cut a notch in the very tip of both noses.

Secret the second: you will use the needle noses to remove the two JESUS! clips (sorry JP) but between them, you will find a plastic ring that is impossible to remove. Use a torch to melt it out. Makes it a 5 minute job.

A few extra tips are... don't by the crap rebuild kits they sell on VB (ugh!). Bpnorthwest.com sells an OEM kit that I am very happy with thus far.

If in the end you decide not to jack with it, you can get a new Raybestos unit off of eBay for roughly $150-165.

Goodluck.
 
Morris,

the BP Northwest kit... are you referring to the $12.00 kit or the $15.98 kit?

Thanks
Tony
 
Morris said:
Secret the second: you will use the needle noses to remove the two JESUS! clips (sorry JP)
Click to expand...

I haven't rebuilt mine yet - may have to use the words too. (though maybe in a different order /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif )
 
Thanks all. I decided to take it to a pro. Trailered it there this morning. Too many projects. Too much stuff going on. Only 168 hours in a week. Besides, brakes are important. Thanks again. I should have it back within a week. I'll try to get some photos up for you. Needs work but still fun right now. John
 
Morris, I bought the rebuild kit that you suggested. one question though... it does not come with the plastic washer that you have to use heat to remove. I called one of the owners at BP Northwest, and he looked in multiple boxes and said that none of them have this part in there. How did you get around this?

Thanks
Tony
 
Wrong rebuild kit?
My rebuild kit had one.
 
It uses a rubber washer instead of the plastic one. There should be a thick rubber ring about the same size as the plastic one you melted out.
 
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