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Brake Lines

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Still not clear if Moss supplies the fittings (4 way union front, 3 way union rear).
They don't list them separately on their website which leads me to believe they don't have them.

Fred
 
rkep01
yes VB seems to carry them, but not sure if the threads are the same as the Moss lines, and also don't won't to order fittings if they come with the Moss lines

thanks
Fred
 
The Moss lines DO NOT include the unions. Just got the set, they actually are really good at the correct lengths. The lines include proper threaded nuts the screwed perfectly to my original unions.
 
Thanks RyanBez

Seems weird they carry line sets specifically for a bugeye but don't carry the unions to go with them. Especially since they seem readily available, VB carries them and I also saw them on the FedHill online catalog.

So, basically if you need the entire brake lines including unions, you can't get them at Moss.

Fred
 
BlueMax said:
Volvo did an extesensive research in brake tubing and concluded some very interesting results...
Click to expand...
I'm glad to hear this. After finding the European copper pipes, I hadn't ever considered using anything else. They're plenty strong even for the race cars but they do have a habit of creeping on the flare, making them sometimes impossible to remove in one piece. I would just replace them as they are so inexpensive.

The local discount shop has copper nickel for only $32 for 5 meters. A real bargain.

I guess Aluminium isn't allowed on cars, but it's used on light aircraft and works very well. One would suspect copper to be stronger than aluminium, but not necessarily.
 
you are not suppose to screw up the two unions.

Anyone who has parted out a spridget should have em.

Oh yea, they are brass so last forever.
 
So i guess the consensus is that the threads are 3/8-24 UNF

Not whitworth or any other odd thread that has burned me before?

Ill be ordering unions soon

Oh, btw the 4 way union ive been referring to is actually 5 way counting the brake light switch

Thanks
Fred
 
Fred - Your bumper bolts are 3/8-24 UNF. If you still have them, try one in one of the good threaded ports on your 4-way. That'll at least confirm whether they are or not 3/8-24.
 
update:

yes the threads are 3/8-24

Don't know what VB is talking about with Whitorth

I used my tap and die set and fixed the threads. The problem was due to a bad flare made by a po.
Anyway, I won't be needing new unions.

Trying to decide if I should replace or reuse my lines. One of them has a union/splice from a previous repair. The look pretty good otherwise, but need cleaned up.

I went by Advance auto and they stock steel "poly armour" coated steel lines in correct size (3/16" OD line with 3/8-24 threaded fittings and bubble flares) in standard lengths for cheap. I would need to buy a bending tool and spend time trying to reproduce my bends. Doesn't look like fun.

Fred
 
If it were me, I'd go with the Fedhill stuff, like Scott recommends. It sounds reasonable in price when compared with the Advance stuff and very easy to work (easy is good). One kinked bend in the steel tubing and you can go back and get another one. :wall: Maybe Scott can also tell us what the Sears Double flare tool number is.
 
Fred, VB doesn't know what VB is talking about, it's par for the course. :thumbsup:
 
As long as your bend radius is large it not hard to bend the tube around an can of beans or something similiar. I use an old pulley. If your bends are tighter use a cheap bending tool. Won't set you back much.

Kurt.
 
hi there best thing is to cut the ends off and have the new lines inserted and flared in their place... If you have a damaged end then just find a replacement from a discarded line. By the way the flaring tool is very "a" specific so make sure the person who does it is BRITISH bred. I had Motorhead do mine...
 
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