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Brake line routing

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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Good morning! Project for today is brake line installation and I need a diagram/pictures of the proper hard line routing. I've searched the forums and googled with no luck.
Thanks, Rut
 
I will tackling this task soon as well, so I'm looking forward to any help the forum can provide.

Keith
 
Blue Max 1.jpgBlue Max 2.jpgAsk and you shall receive. Now this may not be exactly stock routing but I saved these for reference.
 
A few more from Bugsy III the Parts BE I Sold. Pretty much all was as original including the mouse remnants.
091.jpg093.jpg
 
Thanks Jim; these are really helpful. The routing looks very similar to my '65 Sprite, so I'm thinking I can use it as a template. One question though. What is the thing with the knob on the top next to the brake light switch on the black car? Also, I note that on the black car, the clutch line runs on the left side of the drivetrain, while on the other car it runs along the firewall and down the right side. I think the latter is the correct routing?

Keith
 
The black cars brake tubing is similar but not stock as it has 4 wheel disc brakes. The thing with the black knob is an adjustable brake bias for the rear brakes. The clutch line is for the Datsun 5 speed, slave cylinder is on the opposite side of car.
 
And thus it will be for Bugsy II. Glad I know that before I routed clutch lines. A 5 speed for Bugsy II.
 
Thanks guys, very helpful!
Rut
 
BillW103 said:
Stock Bugeye ran clutch across the fire wall. When they went to the duel master for brakes they moved the clutch by the battery.
Click to expand...

Bill, the BE ran the two lines across the bulk head as Jim's pictures show while mid 60's spridgets ran the clutch line by the battery.

Kurt.
 
Alan, on your clutch pipe, is that a hose on the end? I'm putting a five-speed in my Bugeye and have been puzzling out where I will run the line, and feed the slave cylinder. Right now on my ribcase I simply have the typical hardline with the line coiled near the end attached to the slave. I have not been sure if I should add the hose when I route to to the other side. Any thoughts, anyone? I changed the pipe to a copper/nickel one a few years ago.
 
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Rut on a 1275 the hardline goes to a bracket mounted on the frame rail and bakes a transition to a rubber hose. That would be my plan for Bugsy w 5 speed but again slave needs to go on a different side than w a Ribcase.
 
The clutch line will have to wait until I drop my engine and transmission in, but I'll make up a combination of hard line and hose for the 5 speed. I installed a remote bleeder on my MGB and it makes bleeding very simple and I may do the same on the Bugeye...it's located in the upper left next to the firewall.
Rut
 

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Very cool. I wonder, is it possible to avoid rebleeding my slave by simply moving it from one side to the other without taking it off the hardline? I know that I bled it before actually bolting it onto the transmission when I replaced the slave, master and the line, and that worked pretty well too.
 
I fabricated a through hole bracket welded to frame. I hard pipe the tubing from master cylinder down to bracket having a female fitting at the bracket end. I then use a Teflon stainless steel braded male nipple hose through bracket with a jam lock nut on opposite side. At the slave cylinder end the hose has a banjo fitting attached to an E type Jaguar 7/8” slave cylinder. I attached the banjo fitting to bottom of slave with a hollow bolt and two copper washers mounted to an aluminum bracket to allow slave cylinder pushrod a straight line to center of clutch lever on transmission. For the bleed port on the slave cylinder, I use a male nipple Teflon stainless braded tubing attached to a fabricated bracket at one of the bell housings bolts for remote bleeding. If you look close straight back from heater valve you can see the bleed valve.

P1030839.jpg P1040056.jpgP1040107.jpg
 
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Charles, the first thing you need to do is decide what master cylinder and slave combination you are going to use. You won't be able to use the stock Brit slave cylinder without modification or Gerards mount. Rivergate is now making a slave up but used to use the Datsun slave off of a 620 if I remember correctly. The Datsun master was only 5/8 bore and when you try to match the Datsun slave to a British Master of 3/4 or 7/8 you can come up with pretty hard clutch pedal pressure.
The line feeding it works fine with the early coil...that's what I'm running on my Midget. I have the stock Datsun clutch on a Datsun engine and I used the 1098 slave with the 3/4 Master. The slave ends up inverted when you change sides so that the bleed nipple is on the bottom and therefore impossible to bleed. I bled it before I fitted it and never got all the air out so I am going to force fluid through from the bottom with a syringe to get the last of the air out before driving season.
Hope this help's
Kurt.
 
Bluemax, that's far more elegant than what I came up with! Beautiful!.

The 1098 slave is 7/8 as well and I'm wondering what all it took to fit the Jag slave. Did it bolt right up and does the bleed nipple end up on top of the slave?

Kurt.
 
The remote bleeder is a really neat idea and I can't remember where I saw it first. On the Bugeye I'll do something a little differently...ill route the remote bleeder back to the master cylinder reservoir. That way I'll be able to pump that clutch pedal to my hearts content!
Rut
 
Thank you Nomad, they make 2 Jaguar slave cylinders, one is short and one is long. I used the short one, but I had to mill the ears out to fit the bolt pattern for the Datsun transmission.

As far as bleeding, being that the feed line is on the bottom and the bleeder is on the top makes it easy for the bubbles to exit quickly. I had the system bleed with a half dozen pumps and that was it.
 
Yes, I inelegantly milled [die grinder] the mounting holes out on the 1098 cylinder as well and had to make up a little wedge to make it line up better with the TO arm.

Kurt.
 
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