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Brake lights stopped working

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Donny, on a Healey 3000 thats been sitting for 25 yrs. , do the entire brake hydraulic system if you're going to rely on the brakes to stop the car and not the front sheet metal. Kevin
 
Donny, sorry about that last note (above) , I don't mean to be condescending . What I meant was, Your just getting back in to the swing of Healey motoring . You need to make sure your whole brake system is right , including the handbrake. There's a lot of cars out there that can stop a lot quicker than a Healey can. Kevin
 
Kevin( Brinkerhoff) No worries mate. I need all the input that I can get. I'm looking at this break thing as a blessing now. Thank God it happened in the garage and not on the road at speed. So I've scrapped the ordering for all the front end stuff,that was way out of my leag anyway and focusimg on the breaks as first priority.
 
Donny_L said:
Kevin( Brinkerhoff) No worries mate. I need all the input that I can get. I'm looking at this break thing as a blessing now. Thank God it happened in the garage and not on the road at speed. So I've scrapped the ordering for all the front end stuff,that was way out of my leag anyway and focusimg on the breaks as first priority.
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---------------------------- :thumbsup:


Keoke
 
Good call Donny! I know how it is to be low on dough and have to prioritize. If you can swing it you should invest in the factory manual, a three ringed loose leaved affair found on ebay for around 30 bucks. Bentley made a copy that is also available. Third choice, Haynes. Armed With one of these books you can accomplish most any operation necessary regarding your car. They were designed to be maintained by the average Joe. And maintain you must! Go thru your brake system completely like these fellows say. After 25 years all the rubber seals in your calipers and slave cylinders are most likely shot. Take it easy at first when test driving. Do not just jump on the freeway. Take the time to grease All the grease points on your car mentioned in the manual. There are many on these cars. The bleed valves on your brakes are sometimes mistaken for grease points, don't grease these. Top up all fluids being careful not to overfill any! Make sure your overdrive solenoid Disables when engaging reverse or the o.d. will self destruct in an EXPENSIVE jiffy, trust me on this one. I would make sure to turn the o.d. switch off before engaging reverse anyhow. Make sure steering system parts are not noticeably loose for a failure here could prove to be exciting, painful, expensive, or worse. I have experienced the exciting, painful, and expensive part. Happy motoring, Elrey
 
I don't believe the trans should drop into third/regular unless you've previously turned O/D off with the dash switch. Neither our BJ8 nor our 100M drop out of O/D unless the switch is thrown, and throttle applied. I don't think the switch on the gearbox is in the circuit that keeps O/D engaged until you apply throttle, but I may be wrong and I'm too lazy to dig my manual out and look right now.

In fact, the O/D will not kick down even if you throw the switch unless you apply throttle. This can be fun/handy if you're following a slow vehicle at part throttle and see a chance to pass; throw the switch, then when you get your chance stomp on the gas and the O/D will kick down and you'll get a burst of torque and acceleration.
 
:iagree:

The O/D will not kick down even if you throw the switch unless you apply throttle. This can be fun/handy if you're following a slow vehicle at part throttle and see a chance to pass; throw the switch, then when you get your chance stomp on the gas and the O/D will kick down and you'll get a burst of torque and acceleration.

Yep act just like a passing gear more fun en a barrel of monkeys.---Keoke--- :driving:
 
Well right now my OD isn't working. I know that it does function because while doing some test runs with the trans tunnel off I could make it work. once I got up to speed,I'd flip the switch and nothing would happen. Then I'd reach over and apply just a little pressure with my finger tip on that small lever on the passenger side of the trans and it would kick in. Do you think a new switch & silanoid will fix her up?
 
Well Elrey; you mentioned the OD and it just took off from there. But I will re-post my OD question on a new thread so the two don't start to bleed together.
 
Donny_L said:
Well right now my OD isn't working.


I know that it does function because while doing some test runs with the trans tunnel off I could I'd reach over and apply just a little pressure with my finger tip on that small lever on the passenger side of the trans and it would kick in.

Do you think a new switch & silanoid will fix her up?
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No you need a factory service manual that tells you how to set that "small Lever UP " it is maladjusted.---Keoke
 
Strange ... I was commenting in another thread (I thought) where a guy had an O/D that would drop out after he downshifted. Pretty sure I hit 'reply,' but the comment ended up here. Sorry for the off-topic post.
 
You can delete this one BOB hit Edit then you will see delete----Keoke
 
Elrey; very interesting topic. I'd like to hear more about it, just in case I ever get my OD working. You should just start it up as a new topic.
 
Donny_L said:
Well right now my OD isn't working. I know that it does function because while doing some test runs with the trans tunnel off I could make it work. once I got up to speed,I'd flip the switch and nothing would happen. Then I'd reach over and apply just a little pressure with my finger tip on that small lever on the passenger side of the trans and it would kick in. Do you think a new switch & silanoid will fix her up?
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Sounds like a "Weak" solenoid! Patrick
 
I fixed mine with the same technique used with the starting motor when it won't turn, a few whacks with the lead knock-off hammer. If you have a willing assistant, have them pump the brake while you whack away on the switch with the hammer.
Jay
'65 3000
 
why said:
I fixed mine with the same technique used with the starting motor when it won't turn, a few whacks with the lead knock-off hammer. If you have a willing assistant, have them pump the brake while you whack away on the switch with the hammer.
Jay
'65 3000
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----------------- :lol:-------Keoke
 
heck, it just might work. but I gotta say I haven't laughed so hard in a long time! May not be the best Idea.
 
elrey said:
heck, it just might work. but I gotta say I haven't laughed so hard in a long time! May not be the best Idea.
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Well it may not be so far fetched. Let me tell you an encounter I had with this same switch.:

I came out into the shop to check something and found the stop lights on. I got in pressed the brake pedal a few times still the lights remained on . I removed the switch and checked it with the Ohm Meter yep it was closed.In utter disgust and forgetting I did not have a replacement i threw the switch up against a brick wall. Regaining my senses and realising I had to keep it installed but disconnected i replaced it in the car, just for drill I hooked the leads up and the lights were off got in the car pressed the brake pedal and they came on that was back in the mid 80's and I have never had any more trouble out of that switch.---Keoke-- :laugh:
 
Brick wall, huh! And just as I was thinking that I had enough tools... Hey Donny! What kinda wall you got?
 
I'm willing to try anything guys. Do I through the end part that the leads go into OR do I need to take out the mechanicel part and beat it. I think I'm going to take out the mech. part for a good cleaning anyway because of that nasty stuff in the lines.
 
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