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Brake Fluid Splashing Under the Bonnet

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Hi guys,
I think Anthony is on the right track. I know there are many expedient ways to tighten the AH rear hub nuts. A 2-3/16" 12 point socket will sort of work.

Attached is a sketch of just how this socket fits the 2-13/64" 8 sided nut. In my estimation not very well & not much grip & on only four corners.

Considering that the nut "should" be tightened very tight to prevent the slip fit inner bearing from moving on the axle, I don't believe you can get the nut nearly tight enough with the makeshift 2-3/16" socket. It's hard enough to get the needed torque with a good 8 sided socket. If the corners on the very expensive nuts get rounded off there is no way to get the nuts tight.

You can see Barney's discussion of the subject here, it applies equally to the A-H:
Barney Gaylord
https://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra102.htm

You may disagree that the nuts really need to be this tight in the first place. From an enginering standpoint, Barney makes perfect sense. My own experience is similar. If the slip fit bearing inner race "does" move on the axle extension & wears it, things are in a downhill spiral. It also causes the inner seal to leak sooner. If you don't care about the car hanging together long term, or don't plan to put many miles on the car, I guess it doesn't matter either.

To each his own.
D
 

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[ QUOTE ]
shg, a.k.a "mr.frugal", your welcome to use the wrench anytime you might need it "free of charge" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

---- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif SHG!

You believe that and Santa Clause is real too.-Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
keoke please you know im not at all like that, the use of the wrench would be free, the instruction sheet- well thats another matter! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
look at that boy's face. Isn't he happy? And no wrench in sight.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
look at that boy's face. Isn't he happy? And no wrench in sight.

[/ QUOTE ]

You didn't expect to see one did U ?.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Naw SHG, thats a fine young fella you got there.Must take after his mother though.----Keoke
 
true dat. he's a fine one, as is she. they only keep me around so they have someone to make fun of.
 
[ QUOTE ]
true dat. he's a fine one, as is she. they only keep me around so they have someone to make fun of.

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Wot! "They" don't make you pay no BILLS!---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I noticed the same thing. Fluid escapes through the slit in the top of the rubber, but instead of going out the top vent hole, runs down between the inside of the metal cap & the outside of the rubber & comes out around the cap rim. Thus, the need to block the slit. Don't block the vent hole in the metal cap.

Blocking the slit does NOT cause a vacuum to form in the can because the bellows type rubber gasket easily collapses downward as needed to follow any fluid level drop. It won't tear. The rubber forms a flexible sealed diaphram just as in modern cars which do not have a slit.... D

[/ QUOTE ]

I wasn't planning on sealing the slit but I always pay
close attention to what Dave has to say. I will be sealing the slit when I get my car back from the body shop. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
dave russell, thanks, at least someone else has read the "instruction sheet"-to tight shell be allright-to loose ya kill da goose. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
------ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif-7777

What instructiion sheet!?. SKF didn't have a clue as to where them bearings were going ---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Keoke,

What model / year of Volvo uses the same sized plastic cap that will fit our Healey reservoir can ? Thanks
 
HI ED, any one of the late 70's up through the 240 series with dual circuit master cylinders having the plug in plastic reservoir. 1976 Volvo 240. If you want to see a picture Search active Auto Parts and select "Reservoir Cap---Keoke
 
Yes ED, and be sure and prise out the little bubble center piece too.Should you want a Black one see 1972 Volvo P1800.---Keoke
 
Update all around. First, replaced the seal, sealed the slit with superglue. Tightened the top and extra half turn with the vicegrips and replaced the bolts that hold the reservoir bracket to the frame. Problem solved.

As for the chirping, replaced the front bearings, and the pads and rotors since they were off anyway, and she not only stopped chirping, but stops like a dream. Smoooooooth. See, all it takes is time and money and you can make 'er run right.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Update all around.

As for the chirping, replaced the front bearings, and the pads and rotors since they were off anyway, and she not only stopped chirping, but stops like a dream. Smoooooooth. See, all it takes is time and money and you can make 'er run right.

[/ QUOTE ]

WOT! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif "U" actually spent some "Money" ? ---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
WOT! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif "U" actually spent some "Money" ? ---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, not exactly. I told them it was on you. The bill should be in the mail any day now. And give 'em a little extra. They did good. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
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