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Brake Fluid Splashing Under the Bonnet

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the problem persists ...It's not coming out the vent hole, which is dry... Any ideas?

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SHG, Check the top surface of the reservoir can carefully. If there is a dent, perhaps the cap is not sealing well. Also remove the gasket and try screwing the cap down all the way. There might be something in the thread area keeping you from fully screwing down the cap to provide sealing. You might just need to screw the cap down better .. the caps can be slippery and using a rag can help get some purchase. Just don't use a pair of channel locks or the next guy is going to call you a DPO! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cheers,
John
 
Sealed up the slit with crazy glue, made sure it screws on tight, no dents or obstructions. Checked around the top again for any cracks. So far, everything checks out. If this doesn't stop the leak, I'm thinking it's time to get a new reservoir. The paint right above the reservoir on the bonnet is gone already (with a little surface rust starting to show on the nice shiney sheet metal). And to add insult to injury, I've got a chirping noise coming from the front wheel now which I can't identify. I love this car.
 
Well SHG, just buy you some "good" new wheel bearings and put them in and I think the chirping will go away again.---Keoke?
 
Try taping a piece of paper towel to cover the hole in the cap (it will still breath) and drive. If its wet then thats where its coming from but it may also be seeping around the thread of the cap. What would happen if you put plumbing tape on the threads to see if that stops the leak as a test? Just thinking out loud, I've never tried this.
 
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. What would happen if you put plumbing tape on the threads to see if that stops the leak as a test? Just thinking out loud,

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You will end up with a nasty mess cuz the brake fluid will disolve the adhesive on the tape.-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif-Keoke
 
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. What would happen if you put plumbing tape on the threads to see if that stops the leak as a test? Just thinking out loud,

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You will end up with a nasty mess cuz the brake fluid will disolve the adhesive on the tape.-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif-Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]-- shg,are you talking "teflon" tape? if you want to test a material dont do it on installed equipment! put some break fluid in a "jar" (so you can see all around whatever your testing) then add some fluid and a piece of tape to test. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
just checked it out after gluing up the slit. Still have it floating around the rim, but the top vent was dry and clean. Took off the cap and the threads were wet, so it looks like the gasket isn't holding and it's coming out through the threads. I'm gonna test the teflon tape in brake fluid (like my brother Anthony suggests to avoid the Boss Keoke mess) and try cleaning the threads good to try to get a better seal. In the meantime, got the Healey at the mechanics today to check the bearings and make that little birdie leave my car alone. And I may have him turn the rotors and place the pads as long as everything is off. Ever notice how one thing leads to another?
 
The seal is on top of the can flange. The gasket gets squeezed between the flange & the cap. If this part is sealed & the slit is sealed, the fluid never has a chance to get near the threads. The seal should have nothing to do with the threads. If the gasket is uniformly seated into the cap, the cap is not bent, & the top flange is smooth & straight - no leaks. If the top of the can is not flat & smooth, a little work with a flat file could smooth it. If the cap is distorted where it contacts the gasket, replace it. Maybe just screwing the cap down tighter would do the trick. My cap required very firm tightening the first couple of times to get the gasket fully formed & seated. A little fluid on the rubber for lube helps. After that, medium tightening works fine.
D
 
Yes Dave I agree. However, what may be happening is the diameter of the seal may need to be reduced slightly so it fits neatly inside the cap.What might be occurring is the seal rolls up at the edge as the top is tightened.--Fwiw--Keoke

TH! you don't need no steeking tape- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hi Keoke,
At first, I thought that there was no way the rubber would fit into the cap without trimming. A little work pushing the seal into the cap & forcefully seating the cap on the can made everything fit very well. After a couple of days, it didn't need so much pressure to seat. Careful trimming would be an option as you say.
D
 
I rechecked the seating of the gasket. The top was clean and level. I cleaned the threads (just for fun) and screwed it back on as tightly as I could by hand. We'll see how it holds. If this doesn't work, I'm buying a new reservoir, though it will look weird to see a shiny new black can in my old workhorse engine.

In the meantime, the mechanic told me to order some new bearings, and get new pads and rotors as long as the bearings are off. Tell Anthony that I would order them from his pals at S&C except I'd be afraid they'd send me a fan belt and some inner tubes. ;-)
 
Well SHG before you destroy your frugal image. Trim the seal's diameter down just a wee bit. Then tighten it down as much as you can by hand. Wispering; "then take a pair of channel lock pliers and give it about an additional 1/4 turn"--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
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Well SHG before you destroy your frugal image. Trim the seal's diameter down just a wee bit. Then tighten it down as much as you can by hand. Wispering; "then take a pair of channel lock pliers and give it about an additional 1/4 turn"--Keoke

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Frugal? I buy only the finest dog collars money can buy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
shg, some times a couple of loose spokes on a wheel can cause "churping" when this happened to me i put my spare in its place and it disappeared and it should have since id just rebuilt the entire front end, dont feel bad i just had to replace the left rear axle seal on mine, the day after i finnished the job i received the austin healey mag. with a decent discription of performing the work,the wrench i made 1/4" steel,took longer to make then actually doing the job. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif see attch.
 

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I'll try and see if it helps. Hey, it can't hurt, right? In the meantime, not a bad thing to do the brakes. Brakes are good.
 
-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
Yep SHG. Some people just love wastin time. I have setting on my desk here a 2&3/16" socket from the parts house [ "Easco Part #543170" ] that removes those nuts using an impact wrench in a hot second. If you happen to talk to that Anthony fella you might tell him about it too.---Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
dear keoke, yes "grainger" also has the 2-3/16 socket $54.00 and it had to be ordered, i needed to get the beast out of the shop so i could get another (non lbc type) project going,my wrench looks a little rough but man it is effective ,im going to clean it up stamp "keoke" on it and have it nickle plated then hang it in a promonent location as a constant reminder of what a great, kind,patient, nurchering friend i have in you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif lets see-lobster ravioli in pink sauce dinner=$25.00-fill the other half of the healey gas tank=$18.00-go see that new world war one "aireeoplane" movie=$10.00, you must remember that right world war one?-save the last $1.00 for my third house. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif shg, a.k.a "mr.frugal", your welcome to use the wrench anytime you might need it "free of charge" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
now, now boys. No fighting. I think Anthony was very industrious in making his own wrench. And this may be the start of the Keoke brand of wrenches, "The Wrench with the Rustic Look."

And stop calling me frugal. For god's sake, I have a Healey! How much worse does it have to be? Besides, I just bought new pads and rotors even though I didn't really need to. I'm just happy they sell rotors at Petsmart.
 
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