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Brake Drum Help - 60 Sprite

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That's what I figured.... not having the shoes take the time pressure off.... I can go at the bearings nice and slow and make sure I get it right. Sorry to bug you guys so much, but I'm sure I'll have some questions as I go. So.... to pull the hub after taking out the axel.... put the drum on backwards, thread on the lug nuts (or regular nuts of the same size), then just start pulling or rather 'reverse hammering' out against the nuts to pull the hub off the axle tube?
Also... as long as I keep the side I'm working on higher than the other side, nothing should spill out, correct? Should I be refilling the rear end once I'm done, and if so, what exactly am I buying to put in there? It seems some must have leaked out over time...
 
Sounds like you have the idea. Be careful that you don't pull the car off the jack stand. I always lay the wheel/tire under the the car in case something happens.
If the hub does not want to budge you may need to get a short bit of heavy angle iron and drill two holes so that it spans between opposing wheel studs. Then use nuts to tighten down the angle iron thereby pulling the hub out as it presses in on the tube end.

Doubtful that much gear lube runs out. You will want to top it up using 90W gear oil or 85/90 or 80/90 or... it really isn't picky.
 
Before step 10 pressing in seal, remove the flex spring with a pick or tiny screwdriver. You will find a variety of larger sockets work well to drive seal and bearing back into place. There is a size of plastic water pipe that it the exact diameter to fit in the groove where the little oil spring goes.

again the little set
screws hold the hub to the axle. 4 large nuts acting as spacers along with lug nuts will allow you to pul the hub and axle seal together then use set screws to lock in place. Hylomar is nice sealant to use. Seals but you can take apart later if needed.
 
Also, easier to fit brakes w springs attached to the backing plate before the axle and hubs go in. Pay attention to springs, they only fit on one way. We have pics available when you get stumped.
 
Mike,
Like anything on our cars that come in pairs, do one side at a time so you will have the other as a reference.
Rut
 
About the hylomar sealant... where is this used, exactly? And is there an alternative that might be available locally at Advance or Auto Zone?
 
Use permatex 2 form a gasket or even the Permatex High Tack stuff.
 
Both sides of the gasket.
 
So, a couple things... working on the car right now. First, the big nut came right off with almost no pressure... seriously, like slightly more than finger tight. Lock washer was in place, and I was using a 2 foot breaker bar.... the weight alone of which nearly turned the net. Certainly no where near the 125 pounds suggested earlier.

More importantly right now, though.... the sliding hammer using the drum method doesn't seem to be working, and I can't really follow exactly what is suggested with the angle iron method of pulling the hub. I'm going to slide hammer a bit more, but if anyone can better explain what to do with the angle iron, I'd appreciate it....
 
Notice how the threaded portion of the axle tube extends further than the face of the hub? The angle iron will lay across the end of the tube and the two holes you drill will allow two of the four studs to pass through. Then you can put nuts on those two studs and start tightening them evenly. This will draw the hub out and even with the end of the axle tube.
 
Ah.. That would have been easier.... although I am proud of myself. I have a spacer the previous owner used to bump out the tires an inch or so... put that over the studs, placed 2 deep well sockets between the space and the back plate and gently tightened each nut until the hub came off.... angle iron next time, tho....
 
Update from wheel one... The old seal did not come out in one piece... it sort of broke up into tiny pieces as I pried at it. Not sure it that's normal or not. I discovered that the 1 7/8 inch socket for the nut was just about the right size to press in the new seal. Kind of a bugger to get it all the way in there, but I used a large C clamp and the socket with a couple big washers to squeeze it in. Got everything back on the hub and back together. Only thing left for tomorrow is the gasket...

Question -- I've seen several of you mention the screws that hold the half axle against the hub.... usually mentioned 2 such screws. I'm assuming this is the tapered screw.... thing is, there was only one screw in mine. And in fact, there is only one tapered hole in the half shaft plate to go into the hub. There are other holes, but only one would be for a tapered screw.
Do I have this wrong?
 
Maybe I have that backwards. Maybe there is one for the axle and two for the drum/axle.
 
Just double checked my pics as I took it apart, and that's what I see... two in the drum, one in the axle... Hoping to tackle the other side tomorrow and then my brakes should be here mid week...
 
Working on the other side.... Oil seals. Is there a trick to getting the old one out. The first side kind of disintegrated almost like it was dry rotted. This one is softer, but still I end up digging it out piece by piece with small screwdrivers and a picks. Now I'm worried that I'm buggering up the inside of the hub and that can't be good. Just jammed a screwdriver thru a couple top layers of my hand so it's time for a break. Any ideas? Am I missing something? Am I destroying my hubs? It looked to me like other had dug in there before me...
 
There are seal pulling tools, but they do generally require the hub be clamped in a vice. If there are real deep gouges you may want to coat it (the part of the hub where the seal sits) with some ultra grey rtv when installing the new seal.
 
Well.. I wouldn't call anything I've done a 'deep gouge' (except for my hand)... So i guess I'll just keep working at it and see if I can tease it out of there. I bought something called a seal puller but it's just a glorified pry hood.... doesn't do much here.
 
Yes, they are pry tools, but when you can get them hooked under the metal part of the seal they give the leverage required to pull the seal
 
Ah ... that helped. There's metal inside that there rubber. I thought I was seeing hub, but I was actually seeing metal in the oil seal. Got under that and out she came.

Another question -- I replaced the hub and tapped it back in as far as it would go... got the lock ring in place and the nut tightened down. But now, when I turn the hub, the protrusions at the back of the studs come in contact with the rubber of the brake cylinder. Is it possible to push the hub on too far? Or is my brake cylinder perhaps in the wrong place. I removed the shoes, but did not take off the eclip on the cylinder. It sees solidly seated where it belongs.
 
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