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Bondo, where to start

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Hi Pat,

Thanks again for the response. I am using Matrix brand products and their tech sheets state that Etching Primer should be applied to bare metal prior to the epoxy primer. I think that the reasoning for this is that etch primer has some anti corrosion properties to it while the epoxy doesn't....I have read that "chromates" have been removed from epoxy and thus the "need" for etching primer on bare metal.

Thanks again for the suggestions on the primers and test panel spraying. When I get to that stage I will be back to bend your ear :smile:

Cheers
Tush
 
That is top of the line good stuff, the DPLF line of Epoxy Primers. You can't go wrong with those products.

CJD said:
The 2 part epoxy primer I have been using lately is PPG DPLF:

DPLF Epoxy Primer mixed 2:1 with
DP401LF or DP402LF Catalyst provides
an excellent corrosion–resistant primer.
This primer provides excellent adhesion to
many types of properly prepared metal,
fiberglass and aluminum substrates, as well
as plastic fillers. DPLF Epoxy Primer may
also be used as a sealer and topcoated with
most PPG Refinish products.
DPLF Epoxy Primer comes in 6 colors;
DP40LF (Gray–Green), DP48LF (White),
DP50LF (Gray), DP60LF (Blue), DP74LF
(Red Oxide), and DP90LF (Black).


Price is criminally high, but it works for everything...priming, sealing, undercoat, fill coat. I even use it as the top coat for many parts, like the frame, as it dries semi-gloss.

John
Click to expand...
 
Tush
You are smart to always review and follow the tech sheets. I've used Kirker Epoxy, PCL Epoxy, UTech Epoxy, PPG DPLF Epoxy, and SPI Epoxy and none of them require this etching wash primer prior to application of the epoxy to bare metal. So, I was surprised at the Matrix requirement. I've heard very good things about the Matrix product line - I hope you like it.

Pat
 
pdplot said:
My wife and I once spent hours preparing a Corvair convertible for painting. Bondo, filing, sanding, more sanding until it was a smooth as a baby's tush - I even checked the panels with a straightedge. Then off to the paint shop (Maaco) for black enamel paint. Result? Horrible. It looked wavy like it had been in an accident. I was told that "black is merciless" but this was ridiculous. Every little imperfection showed. Remember this - paint will not hide imperfections. And black paint is the worst.
Click to expand...

When I decided to paint my TR3 in black, I knew I would be in for a lot of work getting the panels straight. Plus the fact that I leaded a lot of the body work, all of the seams that were rust repaired, and any work needed along edges. Fortunately, I had a friend that has worked in the body business, and he showed me a bunch techniques to get the panels right.

I'm very happy with the results, but whatever color you're working in, the straighter you get it, the better it will look.
 
Black is the least forgiving, and metallic silver is the most forgiving. When I finally get my TR6 Hathaway Hunter ready for paint... it's going to be black fenders with metallic silver center (classic 30's tuxedo paint job) The one thing that I've been told to be careful of both with black and with silver, which doesn't matter as much with most other colors, is the color of your primer. I forget what I was told about black (sorry) but I was told silver needs a dark color primer to look good on the finish coat.
 
I used a black primer when I painted my car black. It was recommended by the auto paint supplier I bought everything from. Whether or not that's correct, I don't know, but the car looks good.
 
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