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T-Series Bleeding Clutch & ......

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vping

vping

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I bled the clutch as per the Bentley. Watched for bubbles & all that. I was pushing the slave in by hand and more bubbles were coming out so I figured that air was trapped in there. Repeated a few times & no more air. So it seems. I have not started the car yet as it's dinner time.

I rebuild the master & slave. Before I installed them I tested them by pushing in the rod and they shoot fluid pretty far across the garage.

When I start the car, does this push the throw out bearing out & put pressure on the clutch? Right now the pedal is soft.
 
Pedal should be firm regardless (engine running or not). Are you sure you have the hose in the right fitting? It goes in the end, the bleeder is on the side (ask me how I know) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif.

Fill the clutch cyl resevoir full of fluid. Open the slave bleeder screw a crack. Slooooowly push pedal down and hold. Close bleed screw. Wait 5 secs. Release. Wait 30 secs. Repeat about 5 times.

Pedal should be firm.
 
It's really hard to get all the air out of the pedal... and the slave only moves the fork less than a half inch I think... I attached a 6 foot long clear hose to the bleed screww, and propped the open end of the hose up where I could see it... then pumped away (be real careful to keep the reservoir full - I emptied mine 3 times doing this by myself) until there were no more bubbles in the clear hose... then you want to let the pedal go back to it's normal resting place, get out of the car, and tighten the bleeder... That's what worked for me.
 
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I emptied mine 3 times doing this by myself

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another argument for an "Eezi-Bleed" or a home-made innertube force-fed bleeder tool!!!
 
So if I do not have pressure in the foot and both cyls are rebuilt & building pressure, could the clutch/throw out bearing be stuck?
 
sounds a lot like what mine did when it failed... 0 pressure when it failed. Only have pressure at half travel now, and the clutch makes a helluva noise. not good in my case. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif Waiting on parts right now to get the thing back on the road.
 
Did it work before the replacement bits were put in?
 
No I assumed that the master & the Slave were kaput so that is where I started, rebuilding those. I had more pedal pressure before I rebuilt. I just got the car 6 weeks ago knowing that the clutch was not functioning but all felt is was just the hydraulics and not the clutch. I spoke with the PPO, a mechanic and verified that he replaced the cluch. PO did not use the car very much and lets the fluids funk up.
 
Ah. Okay. You may need a second set of hands. You need to observe if the "stroke" on the slave increases in length as the pedal is repeatedly depressed for four or five strokes first.
 
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sounds a lot like what mine did when it failed... 0 pressure when it failed. Only have pressure at half travel now, and the clutch makes a helluva noise. not good in my case. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif Waiting on parts right now to get the thing back on the road.

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OReilleys and other fine parts houses can have those parts for you next day, with no shipping fee, for about what Moss costs
 
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Ah. Okay. You may need a second set of hands. You need to observe if the "stroke" on the slave increases in length as the pedal is repeatedly depressed for four or five strokes first.

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It does, and I can push it back in to stir up some more air to bleed out. It does push the piston out to engage the fork. With pin not attached how should that fork feel to the hand?
 
At the point when it makes contact with the P/plate it should be impossible to push it by hand.
 
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At the point when it makes contact with the P/plate it should be impossible to push it by hand.

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Yep; you should not be able to push back on the plunger by any appreciable amount with the pedal down. A few random thoughts, having just replaced my clutch hose and done the same thing:

Have you checked for leaks?
Are you only cracking the bleeder screw as the pedal is being depressed; then as the pedal is held down, tighten screw? Wait 30 secs and repeat.
Are you "pumping" the pedal?. If so, you want to SQUEEZE the pedal. Pumping will aerate the fluid making it that much harder to bleed.

In general, hydraulics are a PITA to bleed with a one-person method.

I have a Mityvac somewhere that makes this a simple process; can't seem to find it when I need it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
My Eezi-Bleed is my friend! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
With all assembled do you have pressure to move the release fork arm?
 
The piston rod from the clutch pushes out the engages the fork if that answers your Q?
 
But does it move the fork and if so how much??
 
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Loosen bleed screw.


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FWIW, I smear a worm of grease around the bleeder to help prevent the introduction of air through the threads. When you say "loosen", I typically crack the screw just barely enough to let fluid escape. You need to wait at least 20-30 secs when the pedal comes back up.

After 5 or so tries, you should have most of the air out. Are you making sure the reservoir stays full or nearly so? Sorry to ask so many questions...

If all of the above don't firm up the pedal feel, my first guess would be an internal leak in the MC, rather than something wrong in the bellhousing.

Edit: looking at the third photo above; the clevis pin and the pushrod are both very worn/ovalled. Have you replaced these?
 
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