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BJ8 Grille removal and Moss headlight relay installation

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Leo_Speichinger

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Have any of you installed the Moss Motors headlight relay kit? Was there a noticable difference in the headlight brightness and is it worth the effort? Also if so how is the best way to remove the grille to install it (the factory wiring harness is almost impossible to get to without removing it).

Thanks
Leo
 
I replaced a wiring harness without removing the grill--you have to come up from underneath. It's a pain, but I suspect removing the grill is as well.
 
Hi Leo
I Have installed a control unit (not MOSS)for FOG and DRIVE lights without the needs of remove the grille now and in the future(I have a bare frame in this moment)
I take the 12V supply at the outside of tail light switch- so I must have the tail light ON for have the consensus to open F & D lights with the dedicated switch-
all the wire from the F&D light switch pass trough the rear dash and RIGHT fender- where also the FFD Control is positioned (double F because here are also the thermal FAN control for the electrical Push Fan)
wires appears on the front RX side near the splash panel with a connections terminal
ā€‹https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...61958BeginningMayJune2011#5633723551858086146
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ATIONAUSTINHEALEY10061958#5572471117478821810
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...61958BeginningMayJune2011#5633727068670386162
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ALEY10061958?noredirect=1#5452265574464181266
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ALEY10061958?noredirect=1#5415791903428276674
Cheers
 
In my experience, removing the BJ8 grille is an awful job, which wasn't made any easier because the previous owner had replaced some of the original bolts which are threaded on both ends, with standard bolts. As I recall, it's helpful to remove the splash guards in the fenders which allows for easier access to the grille side bolts. Seems to me that I also removed the grille "eyebrow" first as well. It's easy to scratch the paint around the grille opening on re-assembly, so be careful. If you have a later BJ8 model, while the grille is off, you might want to consider painting a matte grey finish on the inner half of the grille surround as original. Factory workers must have installed the grilles on Healeys while the shrouds were off the car, or had very tiny fingers, because there isn't a lot of room to move around...

If you can get around having to remove the grille, that would be preferable...
 
The best way to remove the "teeth" of the grille is to take it out the left wheelwell after removing the splash shield and the wind deflector. The "eyebrow" and the oval part of the grille can be removed toward the front after removing the fasteners.

The headlight brightness should not be affected by using a relay. All the relay does is to avoid having the entire headlight current going through the headlight switch. With a relay, the headlight switch just operates the relay coil, with the headlight current going through the relay contacts.
 
.....Factory workers must have installed the grilles on Healeys while the shrouds were off the car, or had very tiny fingers, because there isn't a lot of room to move around...
ā€‹https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GrXzLyEeDpqYQMXnk8xewtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
this foto suggest the idea that grille was installed at Jensen plant- But in this other, early photo, appear clear that grille was installed
at Longbridge
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/27QOJnE7LlvxF6STW6lHQdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
Cheers
 
I agree with Bob, jack up the front of the car and reach up from underneath to get to the wiring harness. It would help if you had eyes on the end of your fingertips, but you may just have to do some of this by feel. At any rate it's better than tackling that pig of a job of grille removal. I still thing I have a thousand cuts on my hands from that job. Next time I'm wearing chain mail gloves!
 
Thanks for all the replies and the concensus seems to be that I dont want to remove the grille unless I am a massocist (sp?), which I am not. I can see this is going to be fun...

Everyone have a Merry Christmas and if possible stay off the road because the usual drinkers will be out clebrating.

Leo
 
Hi Leo, I didn't buy Moss kit but I did install a relay kit from "Parts Express". Their prices were really reasonable plus they offered the advantage of having a prewired mount for the two relays required. One relay is for low beams the other for high beams. With their kit you only have to splice the two Healey wires feeding both applications to the relay operating contacts. I accessed the wires near the left front fender near the flasher relay. I did notice a big change in the brightness of the headlights. I was reading only 10vdc at the headlights before the relays and after 12vdc at the headlights. Another advantage is having extra contacts ,already wired, available in case you want to add fog/driving lights later on. I used the battery supply at the solenoid to access 12vdc from the battery. All my wiring was done under the hood without removing anything. You do have to cut into the wiring harness to locate the two wires supplying the headlights from the switch. I bought extra relays in case of failure. The relays plug into the pre-wired mount as stated.
 
:iagree:----With Steve

I also do not see a need for a Kit just get a bosh 12V relay and an extra piece of wire to bring in switched power from the starter relay to the relay. The light switches blue wire switches the relay
 
This is interesting to me as I find more consistent brightness (I'm still using the generator) even when stopped compared to the dimming I use to get when I slowed or stopped. I built my own relay system and use halogen lights. Great improvement at very low cost. There was no need to remove the grill (BJ8). I did install a second fuse box under the dash behind the heater just in case but no problems in over two years.
 
I also installed my own headlight relays on my TR6. I used two relays... one for high beam and one for low all with separate fuses. Total cost for two relays, fuse holder and fuses, plus two spare relays was about $27. I find my lights are brighter now that the relays have been installed.

Headlight relays 002.jpg
 
Thanks for all the advice from everyone. <Johnny> you gave me my christmas present as I hadnt thought of where they came out for the dimmer switch and yep, there they are right where it is easy to mount the relays and splice right into where the bullet connectors are. Thanks to everyone!!
 
Johnny,
I checked Parts Express and don't see the relays with mount to which you referred. Got a part number? Thanks.
Lin
 
Lin said:
Johnny,
I checked Parts Express and don't see the relays with mount to which you referred. Got a part number? Thanks.
Lin
Click to expand...

Sorry about the late response Lin. I put all the info somewhere together so as to write an article but having a senior moment as to where **%^&$ I put it? But, as stated, there are other suppliers.
 
Hello Leo,

When i replaced the original Lucas Headlights on my TR6 with a modern replacement, It was a major improvement! I never replaced the original headlight harness or installed relays... I never had a problem! Im not saying that replacing your harness and installing relays is not a good idea to take advantage of the brighter lamps, but just passing on my result!
 
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