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BJ8 Fuel Filter Installation

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fwtexasbj8

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I am now starting through the updating of the fuel system and want to add a cartridge type fuel filter before the carbs. Haw has anyone installed one? I am assuming I will cut the flexible fuel line and install it in-line but was wondering if anyone had a more clever mounting scheme. Maybe just after the hard line, before the flex?

Doug
 
Another location, and less obvious, is to mount the filter between the tank and fuel pump.

If you could source the correct fittings, you wouldn't have to cut any of the original pipes/hoses.
 
I installed mine between the pump and the carburetor, near the pump.
I try to hide what is not stock.

The filter size may determine where you place it back there. There was only one place my filter would fit, because of the diameter of the cylinder.
It's an easy install with a pipe cutter.

If you really want to install it up front, next to the carburetors, I would stay away from the glass styled filters. There are some slender styled filters available.
Good luck,
Roger
 
Putting a filter between the tank and pump also protects the pump in case you have a rusty tank or get some trash in your gas tank.You probably know someone who has repeatedly replaced fuel pumps or has to tap on them to make them work.They may have a corrupted gas tank.You can also install a dual pump system if you plan to take long trips,a simple switch to change pumps,and it works as a no-go device if you turn the pump to off.Healeys do not need high fuel pressure,get a fuel pump rated near to factory specs.
 
Wheelwright is correct--the little filter screen on the SU pump can easily be overcome by a load of junk whereas a cheap inline can hold alot more trash, and can be visibly inspected and quickly changed for a few bucks (I carry a spare on trips).

I installed the filter at the top of the wheel arch, then a cube pump as an auxiliary and on in series to the SU with a selecter switch as WW mentions.

Do not forget that cutting the fuel line breaks the sender's ground so pull a separate wire to a nearby fastener going into bodywork, etc.
 
Can't hurt to put in two filters, one at the pump and a second at the carbs. Works for me.
 
:iagree:
 
For another perspective, I've run my BJ8 for 25 years and almost 100K miles with no fuel filters besides the screens in the pump and the carbs, and never had a problem with any crud in the system. I put in a new tank with Bill Hirsh slosh (probably) 15-20 years ago, and I freshen the flex line every 10 years or so. I run Grose jets, which are probably more susceptible to contamination than needle valves. I also live in California, so who knows what formulations and additives the gas has had over the years (MTBE and ethanol, for sure).

I'm not saying a filter (or two) isn't a good idea, but you CAN do just fine without them. If you have filter(s), and you're getting a lot of junk in them you should correct the problem; don't use the filter(s) to compensate for an underlying problem--if it's bad enough the filter will clog anyway.
 
Bob -

Having run my BJ8 in California for 15 years before moving the car to Hong Kong, I can attest that California's weather is the exception rather than the norm - it really helps reduce rust. Here in Hong Kong my car HAS to have a filter so that I can monitor it closely and make sure that rust isn't getting into the system.

Since the post is from Texas, I'd say some caution is a smart idea.

FWIW, the easiest, cheapest, and best solution is to get the little Bosch clear VW bug filters, which you can get at any auto parts store for about 2 bucks or less. They are clear so you can see the crud, and you can buy two or three and keep a spare in the boot if you want.
 
Alan,

That would bother me (knowing I had a rusty gas tank). I believe (not sure) there's a screen on the pickup in the tank and, eventually, I would expect that to get plugged, at least intermittently. No downstream filter would help. Eventually, your tank will rust through and you'll get pinhole leaks--my California tank did (do you have any gas smell in the boot?).

I was leery of the tank "slosh" (internal coating), because gas formulations are changing all the time and the last thing I'd want is a chunk of "paint" breaking off in my tank. But, I've had absolutely no problems and no rust in my fuel system (whatever water makes it into the steel lines doesn't seem to be a problem). I live in the Bay Area which is somewhat humid--though I'm sure not as humid as Hong Kong--and close to the ocean; i.e. "salt" air.

One can argue that you might get crud from the gas pump, but I believe it's filtered at the pump. I cut my truck's fuel filter open after 100K+ miles of gas from (mostly) discount stations. There was a small amount of black sediment--which I attribute to the black plastic tank shedding a little--but no rust or other contaminants.

YMMV
 
Once again, thanks all for the advice. I like the installation at the fuel pump for asthetics and pump protection. I am not getting much gunk at the carb filters, just want some more protection is why I want a filter.

Michael, where did you add the fuel sendor ground wire? Is it simply connected to one of the mounting screws and then to a suitable ground on the frame?

Doug
 
Michael Oritt said:
Do not forget that cutting the fuel line breaks the sender's ground so pull a separate wire to a nearby fastener going into bodywork, etc.
Click to expand...

As you can see in the photos I attached earlier, I cut the fuel line. The pump is grounded, as per instruction when installed. I have a negative electronic pump.

Why do I need to ground it again?
There seems to be no problem now.
What will happen if not grounded again?
Does your advise apply to me?

Thanks, Roger
 
Cant see why, as a lot of cars these days and yesteryears had inline filters made of plastic, doesnt the fuel being a liquid itself act as a continuity anyway?
 
Hi Roger,
Michael was talking about a ground wire if the fuel line was cut between the tank and pump. Yours is downstream of that. The reason is the way the tank is installed, it may not make a good ground for the fuel sending unit. Another way around the grounding issue, is to use a metal filter body.
 
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