• Hi Guest! Being a Paying Supporter is NOT a requirement to participate at BCF. However, subscribing will help ensure we can continue to serve the LBC community for years to come. If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource...Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)
Tips
Tips

BJ8 Fuel Filter Installation

fwtexasbj8

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
I am now starting through the updating of the fuel system and want to add a cartridge type fuel filter before the carbs. Haw has anyone installed one? I am assuming I will cut the flexible fuel line and install it in-line but was wondering if anyone had a more clever mounting scheme. Maybe just after the hard line, before the flex?

Doug
 
Country flag
Offline
Another location, and less obvious, is to mount the filter between the tank and fuel pump.

If you could source the correct fittings, you wouldn't have to cut any of the original pipes/hoses.
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
I installed mine between the pump and the carburetor, near the pump.
I try to hide what is not stock.

The filter size may determine where you place it back there. There was only one place my filter would fit, because of the diameter of the cylinder.
It's an easy install with a pipe cutter.

If you really want to install it up front, next to the carburetors, I would stay away from the glass styled filters. There are some slender styled filters available.
Good luck,
Roger
 

wheelwright

Member
Offline
Putting a filter between the tank and pump also protects the pump in case you have a rusty tank or get some trash in your gas tank.You probably know someone who has repeatedly replaced fuel pumps or has to tap on them to make them work.They may have a corrupted gas tank.You can also install a dual pump system if you plan to take long trips,a simple switch to change pumps,and it works as a no-go device if you turn the pump to off.Healeys do not need high fuel pressure,get a fuel pump rated near to factory specs.
 
Country flag
Offline
Wheelwright is correct--the little filter screen on the SU pump can easily be overcome by a load of junk whereas a cheap inline can hold alot more trash, and can be visibly inspected and quickly changed for a few bucks (I carry a spare on trips).

I installed the filter at the top of the wheel arch, then a cube pump as an auxiliary and on in series to the SU with a selecter switch as WW mentions.

Do not forget that cutting the fuel line breaks the sender's ground so pull a separate wire to a nearby fastener going into bodywork, etc.
 

Andy65

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Can't hurt to put in two filters, one at the pump and a second at the carbs. Works for me.
 
Offline
:iagree:
 
Country flag
Offline
For another perspective, I've run my BJ8 for 25 years and almost 100K miles with no fuel filters besides the screens in the pump and the carbs, and never had a problem with any crud in the system. I put in a new tank with Bill Hirsh slosh (probably) 15-20 years ago, and I freshen the flex line every 10 years or so. I run Grose jets, which are probably more susceptible to contamination than needle valves. I also live in California, so who knows what formulations and additives the gas has had over the years (MTBE and ethanol, for sure).

I'm not saying a filter (or two) isn't a good idea, but you CAN do just fine without them. If you have filter(s), and you're getting a lot of junk in them you should correct the problem; don't use the filter(s) to compensate for an underlying problem--if it's bad enough the filter will clog anyway.
 

healeynut

Jedi Knight
Offline
Bob -

Having run my BJ8 in California for 15 years before moving the car to Hong Kong, I can attest that California's weather is the exception rather than the norm - it really helps reduce rust. Here in Hong Kong my car HAS to have a filter so that I can monitor it closely and make sure that rust isn't getting into the system.

Since the post is from Texas, I'd say some caution is a smart idea.

FWIW, the easiest, cheapest, and best solution is to get the little Bosch clear VW bug filters, which you can get at any auto parts store for about 2 bucks or less. They are clear so you can see the crud, and you can buy two or three and keep a spare in the boot if you want.
 
Country flag
Offline
Alan,

That would bother me (knowing I had a rusty gas tank). I believe (not sure) there's a screen on the pickup in the tank and, eventually, I would expect that to get plugged, at least intermittently. No downstream filter would help. Eventually, your tank will rust through and you'll get pinhole leaks--my California tank did (do you have any gas smell in the boot?).

I was leery of the tank "slosh" (internal coating), because gas formulations are changing all the time and the last thing I'd want is a chunk of "paint" breaking off in my tank. But, I've had absolutely no problems and no rust in my fuel system (whatever water makes it into the steel lines doesn't seem to be a problem). I live in the Bay Area which is somewhat humid--though I'm sure not as humid as Hong Kong--and close to the ocean; i.e. "salt" air.

One can argue that you might get crud from the gas pump, but I believe it's filtered at the pump. I cut my truck's fuel filter open after 100K+ miles of gas from (mostly) discount stations. There was a small amount of black sediment--which I attribute to the black plastic tank shedding a little--but no rust or other contaminants.

YMMV
 

GregW

Yoda
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
Bob_Spidell said:
I believe (not sure) there's a screen on the pickup in the tank and, eventually,
From what I've heard, the original tanks had screens, the new ones do not.
 
OP
F

fwtexasbj8

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
Once again, thanks all for the advice. I like the installation at the fuel pump for asthetics and pump protection. I am not getting much gunk at the carb filters, just want some more protection is why I want a filter.

Michael, where did you add the fuel sendor ground wire? Is it simply connected to one of the mounting screws and then to a suitable ground on the frame?

Doug
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Bronze
Country flag
Offline
Michael Oritt said:
Do not forget that cutting the fuel line breaks the sender's ground so pull a separate wire to a nearby fastener going into bodywork, etc.

As you can see in the photos I attached earlier, I cut the fuel line. The pump is grounded, as per instruction when installed. I have a negative electronic pump.

Why do I need to ground it again?
There seems to be no problem now.
What will happen if not grounded again?
Does your advise apply to me?

Thanks, Roger
 

zblu

Jedi Knight
Offline
Cant see why, as a lot of cars these days and yesteryears had inline filters made of plastic, doesnt the fuel being a liquid itself act as a continuity anyway?
 

GregW

Yoda
Platinum
Country flag
Offline
Hi Roger,
Michael was talking about a ground wire if the fuel line was cut between the tank and pump. Yours is downstream of that. The reason is the way the tank is installed, it may not make a good ground for the fuel sending unit. Another way around the grounding issue, is to use a metal filter body.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
Cutrog1 BJ8 Fuel Tube Installation Austin Healey 10
S BJ8 Fuel Pump Austin Healey 13
B Fuel pipe runs BJ8 Austin Healey 2
Lutz Kramer Fuel gauge and sender unit for BJ8 Austin Healey 2
Bob_Spidell BJ8 Fuel Pump Trivia Austin Healey 0
M BJ8 Fuel pump Austin Healey 13
J BJ8 PhI ; #25805; Fuel Pump Austin Healey 20
T BJ8 Tachometer and Fuel gauge stopped working. Austin Healey 27
S BJ8 Fuel Gauge -Shows 1/4 tank when empty Austin Healey 10
pkmh BJ8 Fuel Tank Sending Unit - Ground Wire Austin Healey 8
Ed_K Correct SU Fuel pump for a BJ8 [ PSI specs] ? Austin Healey 9
AUSMHLY Float bowl fuel height BJ8 Austin Healey 4
G BJ8 Fuel Gauge Core Austin Healey 9
N BJ8 out of fuel at 1/4 full tank Austin Healey 4
Frank C. BJ8 Fuel Gauge Austin Healey 5
L BJ8 FUEL TANK SPOTTED Austin Healey 2
G BJ8 Fuel gauge help Austin Healey 8
BOBBYR BJ8 FUEL TANK Austin Healey 7
D BJ8 fuel consumption Austin Healey 5
J I need a picture of installed fuel pump for BJ8. Austin Healey 4
JamesD BJ8 Top Frame Bumpers Austin Healey 4
AUSMHLY BJ8 Driveshaft Installation Austin Healey 10
M BJ8 Inner Body Panel Repair Austin Healey 2
crispy BJ8 Front Suspension Austin Healey 9
HealeyRick BJ8 Repaint Advice Sought Austin Healey 15
BJ8Healeys Original Metallic Golden Beige BJ8 for sale Austin Healey Classifieds 0
M BJ8 Seat Thickness Austin Healey 6
D BJ8 Headlight Rims Austin Healey 0
B RHD BJ8 Throttle Control Rods Austin Healey 9
J BJ8 Radiator Fan Austin Healey 12
H BJ8 Heater Valve/Control Tap Austin Healey 3
R BJ8 Upholstery Austin Healey 5
M Mounting BJ8 Chassis on Rotisserie Austin Healey 8
T BJ8 Drain Channel Removal Austin Healey 2
B BJ8 Phase 1 Electrical Diagram Austin Healey 15
M For Sale BJ8 Tonneau Cover Austin Healey Classifieds 8
R Distributor: Reassembling BJ8 Engine Austin Healey 5
lbcspinners BJ8 chassis number ending with suffix "G" [??] on BaT Austin Healey 11
R New Engine mountings BJ8 Austin Healey 1
T BJ8 carpet Austin Healey 2
R Cylinder head gasket BJ8 Austin Healey 32
pkmh BJ8: Upper Trunnion Rebuild [Of Continuum] Austin Healey 9
BJ8Healeys For Sale 1965 BJ8 for sale Austin Healey Classifieds 0
M Getting behind the dash on BJ8 Austin Healey 4
J BJ8 flywheel take some pounds off Austin Healey 17
Keoke 1966 AH BJ8 on eBay Austin Healey 18
L BJ8 Batteries Austin Healey 8
pkmh Front Spring Removal For BJ8 Austin Healey 8
M Wanted Bj8 left front wing Austin Healey Classifieds 3
B BJ8 door hinges Austin Healey 7

Similar threads

Top