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BJ8 Door latch question

Cutlass

Jedi Warrior
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I'm at a roadblock on getting the door latches adjusted correctly on my 66 BJ8, and I think I've found the problem. The slotted catch that cams over the striker has some play. It appears to be enough to allow the door to move in and out even after fully closed. I don't have the door panels or door seals in yet, so this may take up the slop, but I'd like to know now before it's all buttoned up.

If the play is really the problem, is there a cure? It appears that the slotted catch is attached to a round shaft with a rectangular part milled into it, and a corresponding rectangular hole in the catch. One of the two is either worn, or there is built in play. A new latch assembly is a bit pricey, if even available. I could weld the two pieces together, or drill and tap an overlaping set screw.

Any ideas?
 

peter41692

Freshman Member
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Cutless, I have a 67 BJ8. I'm in the panel fit process. I also noticed the same thing. When the door shuts and everthing seems to be aligned (door seams) I push on the door a little more and it moves in just a bit. I thought that it was wear, but it doesn't apear that way. If it wasn't built that way why is the latch spring loaded? Hopefuly someone will help us


peter
 
OP
C

Cutlass

Jedi Warrior
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Peter: The more I think about it, the more I think that the slop is designed into the latch, with the rubber seal assigned to take up the slack when the door is closed. It would be nice to get some confirmation from one who really knows, however.
 

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
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We'll assume you have lined up the door gaps via the two hinges. The door hangs where it should.

The door should be hung so that the swag line, lines up. If the swag line is off just a little, the striker can help snug it in position.

Having the door panel or seals in place or not in place, should not affect the end process of how the door clicks in place.

All adjusting will be done with the two posi-screws, packing plate and maybe a washer or two behind the screw striker.
(the lock assembly on the door is non adjustable)

1. Shut face with welt should be in place. (or something of the same thickness)
2. Striker may need a packing plate behind it. (moss 021-347) This is used to adjust the striker in towards the lock assembly, if needed.
3. Screw striker (moss 021-349) may need a spacer (washer) behind one or both of the posi-screw holes. So as to make it parallel with the striker.
4. Adjust the striker via the two posi-screws, up-down-right-left till it pulls the door in two clicks. The first click is the safety, the second positions the door.

Very important that the door hangs properly first. Small adjustments with the two posi-screws will move the striker to the right place.

Your situation may be a worn out striker? Photo of my not-new striker shown below. I just have too much time on my hands, so I use metal polish to make it look...like new. (see the worn off left corner)

5. Patience and persistence.
Good luck,
Roger
 
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Cutlass

Jedi Warrior
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Thanks, Roger. Doors are properly hung, and fit just fine. The problem is that after the "second click," the door can still be pulled out and pushed in, around 1/4 inch. My thought was that the latch has enough play, due to wear, to rotate on the striker just a bit. If that's the case, then the latch needs to be tightened on its shaft. Both strikers are in good shape, one new and one old. Jim
 

andybj8

Jedi Hopeful
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First post! My car had the same problem, and as you cant get the latch in the uk, the guy doing my body work (marque expert) welded the forked catch onto the square shaft due to the excessive play, lovely and solid now, cheers Andy
 
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Cutlass

Jedi Warrior
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Welcome, Andy. And thanks for the word. I've been tinkering with this issue for a few days, now. In addition to the play in the fork, it is bit spring loaded, so when closed fully, the door can be pushed inward against the spring loading. I trial fit a portion of the bristleflex, and this did seem to take up much of the play, keeping the door from moving inboard. It does seem intuitive to weld the fork to its shaft, I'm going to wait for now, at least until the finished door, with all trim, still rattles, or until more of the old hands here say that's the way to go. Jim
 

GregW

Yoda
Platinum
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Hi Cutlass,
I was down working on my car today. I also have two clicks with additional play after the second click. The spring has a good amount of tension on it though. There is no play between the catch fork and the shaft it is attached to. Here is a video of the latch in action. Below that is a photo of the latch in it's second locked position. I'll be down there again tomorrow and Wednesday to if you have any follow-up questions.

X8D4kHw" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
 

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AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
Country flag
Online
Videos are great!

My left and right door latch has some play after the second click, just as your video shows. I believe it should have some play after the second click.

I had the same situation with my doors not staying in place once the second click was heard.

I spent a bit of time playing with striker position. Gradually I got closer and closer to it not having any play when shut. It can be done, but it takes a lot of trial and error. Not only placement, but using shims too.

The problem may be with a worn out striker.
 
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Cutlass

Jedi Warrior
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That's just awesome, Greg! I'm beginning to believe that a bit of wear-caused play on the fork is not a big deal.
 
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