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Gliderman8

Gliderman8

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OK, I have my 5-speed conversion just about done.
Now, I need to stop the leak from my differential. We all have British cars so I know YOU know what I'm talking about :cheers:
So, what's the best way to tackle the problem?
I did install a new oil pinion seal about six years ago during the rebuild (that's where it appears to be leaking). Can someone tell me what they did and if anything can help?
 
If it's the pinion seal, you know the drill, Elliot. I was able to get seals from a NAPA store if that's any consolation.
 
Poolboy
Can Pinion Seal be replaced at home or is this something where I need to take the diff to the tranny shop? I've got my diff off the car right now so this might be the right time to tackle this?

Pat
 
Could be that the pinion flange that the drive shaft bolts too is scored and needs a speedi-sleeve to seal correctly. Mine did.
 
Yeah, Pat it's not much of a job at home. The hardest part is getting the old seal out. I cut the metal edges of the old seal in 2 places so as to make a flap that I can grasp with vise grips and another 2 cuts with a hack saw blade 180* opposite the first flap and pull alternately on the flaps.
The old seal will probably come out mangled, just don't do too much prying where you scar up the walls of the differential where the seal fits.
As you put in the new seal tap it in equally along the circumference gently with, using a block of wood between the seal and the hammer if you don't have a "seal seating" tool.
Personally I use Hylomar around the outer circumference of the seal before I set it in place and lube the lips that surround the pinion shaft.
The manual will fill in the details about the flange and mount removal and replacement.
More than likely if you have the large Nyloc pinion shaft nut you will have the non-colapsable spacer around the pinion shaft, so you won't have to deal with the "preload" that's mentioned in the Manual as the preload has been set with shims and a non- colapsable spacer.
 
PeterK said:
Could be that the pinion flange that the drive shaft bolts too is scored and needs a speedi-sleeve to seal correctly. Mine did.
Click to expand...
Just to emphasize Peter's point; polish the area where the seal rides with crocus cloth or similar. If there is a line or mark that you cannot polish away, it needs a Speedi-sleeve.

Be sure to lubricate both the surface and the lips of the seal when assembling. Type of lube isn't so important, just use something (I use wheel bearing grease as there is a tub of it handy).
 
Thanks for all the good advice everyone. Sometime this weekend, I hope to have it out and on the bench.
 
I don't know if you have a Workmate by Black and Decker, but it comes in real handy for holding the Differential upright in it's jaws while you work away on it.
 
poolboy said:
I don't know if you have a Workmate by Black and Decker, but it comes in real handy for holding the Differential upright in it's jaws while you work away on it.
Click to expand...
And if not, it's pretty easy to fabricate something

DSCF0066.jpg
 
Pretty neat setup Randall. I'm not planning on going in that far, just hopeing that the new pinion oil seal will do it.
 
Gliderman8 said:
I'm not planning on going in that far,
Click to expand...
Of course. That was just the best shot I had handy showing the bar in the vise to support the diff.
 
I am ready to do battle... picked up this new pinion oil seal at the local auto parts store. As I'm still waiting for a new rear oil seal for my transmission, I probalby won't get to the diff until Mon or Tues.
 
It looks like that seal already has a "sealing agent" around the outer perimeter, that redish stuff. One I got from NAPA had it, too, only it was blueish.
 
I wondered what that "stuff" was. Think I should still use a sealing agent anyway?
 
I'm almost positive that I did. One of those "belt and suspenders" deals
 
F/M recommends no additional sealer with it, just be CERTAIN the I.D. where it's goin' is "hospital clean" and free of gouges or burrs. Usually the problematic part will be the shaft O.D. being scored and as noted above, a sleeve is the only solution.
 
TR3driver said:
PeterK said:
Could be that the pinion flange that the drive shaft bolts too is scored and needs a speedi-sleeve to seal correctly. Mine did.
Click to expand...
Just to emphasize Peter's point; polish the area where the seal rides with crocus cloth or similar. If there is a line or mark that you cannot polish away, it needs a Speedi-sleeve.

Be sure to lubricate both the surface and the lips of the seal when assembling. Type of lube isn't so important, just use something (I use wheel bearing grease as there is a tub of it handy).
Click to expand...

The speedi-sleeve comment got me thinking..... Is there a downside to installing the speedi-sleeve anyway? I would hate to go through all the trouble of dropping the diff to install the seal, and then re-installing it only to find it is still leaking.
 
Gliderman8 said:
The speedi-sleeve comment got me thinking..... Is there a downside to installing the speedi-sleeve anyway? I would hate to go through all the trouble of dropping the diff to install the seal, and then re-installing it only to find it is still leaking.
Click to expand...
Just cost & hassle, IMO. Last time I had to go to two different NAPA stores; then it cost $40 & took two days to come in.

Both the NAPA near work and the independent store I usually deal with only carried some line of clones, that didn't come in the right size.

But if you can polish the surface until no marks are left (with a reasonable amount of polishing), then IMO a Speedi-sleeve isn't going to help, either.
 
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