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BE radiator recore

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smaceng

smaceng

Jedi Knight
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Hi All,
I've got the 1275 in the BE and it is running OK, but it is still too hot. I had the stock downflow radiator cleaned out and the shop said the flow is good. I'm using the yellow 6-blade fan and a Mini Mania high flow water pump. My first big drive it ran right at 190-195, too hot for me on a 80s day. I then checked the 'stat and it opened right at 190. So I changed to one that opened at 175. Still running too hot. Then changed to water wetter with just a small amount of antifreeze, still too hot. So my next idea is to have the radiator recored with a high density core and 3 tubes deep. Anyone know of what core vendor and part # would work? Any one know of a shop in the San Francisco area that has done this job? I would like to keep the stock look as much as possible with the old top and bottom tanks. BTW, fan belt is tight and the dash gauge has been calibrated using another probe.
Too hot in CA
 

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Did mine here in Modesto a few years ago (B/E still has not run yet though). He also did my TR3a. Not sure you need a special shop and there are a number of good radiator shops here in town.

America's Radiator & Mufflers
424 Kiernan Avenue
Modesto, CA 95356-9489
(209) 579-5902
Paul
 
I've got the same issue with my 59 B/E. I'll be following your 'trail' to see how it works with you. I think the problem is just to big an engine '1275', with to small an original radiator. Also went to more modern yellow fan, good thermostat, 50/50 antifreeze. Good luck!
 
I moved a 1275 engine from a crossflow midget over to a downflow bugeye. I saw no less cooling from the downflow.

I think the issue is the water pump.
 
Get a stock water pump, cheep enough.

You do know if the pump moves the water too fast it gets too hot just like if it is moved too slow.

Many race cars in the old days cut the water pump vanes down to slow the water movement and cool things better.

Miss Agatha, 998 cc and all stock stuff even when temp outside is over 100 never gets over 185 degrees. Do try a new pump.
 
both you Jack and Trevor think that my problem is the water pump.....too much flow? I will ask Mini Mania for their opinion and will let you know. And here I thought I was doing a good thing!
Scott in CA.
 
I have three water pumps. One in each car, and one spare. They all have different impellers. The differ in size, shape, and material (pressed steel and cast).

I do not know which one is best, or what was original. However, it stands to reason that they all perform a little differently. I recently had a friend install a new water pump in his 1275 bugeye (downflow). He changed it because his bearing was shot (this was the only change he made). His car is now running 10 degrees warmer. He is going to have his old pump rebuilt and see if that cures the problem (I think it will). I'll try to get him to take measurements on the impeller before he swaps it back.
 
Lets face facts, maybe.

Down flow radiatior has been around a long time and when clean etc. works fine. When water passages in engine are clean all works fine.

These two facts are proven by time and experience, under the old shade tree and on the track as well. Guess how many of these little cars have been raced and raced hard over the years. Take another guess as to how many mountain passes they have been over in the last 50 years. Yep, cooling worked.


Somewhere, sometime the orginal water pump design was changed ie from cast I think to pressed steal impelers. And I furtner submit that the new cast impellers may not be correct either depending upon who and where they were made.

I guess what we need is an orginal impeller to measure and photograph alongside a selection of new ones. Wonder if Moss has taken a look at this.
 
On the race cars, I use a limiting washer where the thermostat would normally go, what this does is slow the water flow down, and make the water stay in the radiator a little longer, it works great. Ok with that being said there are several water pump design on the market for the 1275s, they are round propeller with curved blades made out of cast iron, and plastic, then there is the shettmetal finned units as well. Maybe the pump is just pumping too fast and caviatating the flow, if so you could try the old racer's trick mentioned earlier in the thread, but grinding a couple of fins away, a blanking sleeve ran in conjuntion with the thermostat might be a good idea as well.
 
Are dead sure about the timing set-up on the car. If it's wrong she will run hot.


Cheers

Mark
 
Surly glad to see you step in there Hap. I was sure no one would beleive me.
 
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