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BE oil consumption

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Still getting familiar with my recently acquired BE. Now that good weather has set in, I am starting to put on some miles. In doing so, I've noticed that the car is using (losing) oil at the rate of about 3 to 4 ounces per 100 to 120 miles (more or less). It isn't obviously burning oil, just losing it. I am monitoring it to get a clearer idea. But, if this is what is happening, is it "normal" (whatever is normal for a 55 year old car) or is this excessive? Your experience with this condition will help me to evaluate what to do next.
 
How would that equate with miles per quart?? 3 or 4 hundred would be excessive IMO but that is up to the beholder!:smile-new:
 
LOoks like a quart every 500 miles = excessive. .. quart every 1000 miles.. borderline acceptable. quart every 3000 miles .. "normal" range. look for the size of the puddle under the car.
 
If it's a 55 year old car that has never seen any restorations, I'm not surprised. If you're certain you're not burning it, it shouldn't be difficult to locate the bulk of the loss.
 
I'm losing a quart every 300 miles like clockwork. Some of it is leaking out the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket, and some of it is burning out the tailpipe when it leaks past the rings. Still have relatively decent compression, but I know a rebuild of the bottom of the motor is looming, maybe another 2 or 3 driving seasons before I have to bite the bullet. Adding oil is still cheaper than a rebuild...and it's self-changing oil. By the time you get to 3,000 miles, the oil has been changed two and half times. Top half was rebuilt when I blew the head gasket two years ago.
 
SaxMan said:
Adding oil is still cheaper than a rebuild...and it's self-changing oil. By the time you get to 3,000 miles, the oil has been changed two and half times. Top half was rebuilt when I blew the head gasket two years ago.
Click to expand...

Yep. As long as you're not leaving a mess everywhere (or clouds of blue smoke), I'd delay as long as I could too. :encouragement:
 
Still not exactly sure how much oil I am losing, but 3 to 4 oz per 120 miles looks about right.

As for puddles, it has been dropping only a very little oil in my garage -- not much of a puddle at all.

I spent the morning under the car, for the first time, looking for oil leaks. I found that the oil drain plug was leaking a little, perhaps because someone failed to install the required washer. the rear seal is also leaking some. I know these can be a problem, but this one was replaced about four months ago (?)

Definitely not burning oil, or at least there is no smoke at all.

I'm a little confused by some of the figures given above. If I am losing 3 ounces per 120 miles, then I figure that I would lose a quart (32 ounces) in 1,320 miles, and not 500 miles. What am I missing?
 
I didn't have mine rebuilt til it was a tank of gas for a quart of oil. then my environmental concsiousness took over and I had ti done.
 
Many thanks to all.

My conclusion from all of your responses is that at the rate I am losing oil -- which is not alarming -- I can wait a few seasons before deciding whether to have a rebuild or not. As long as it is not emitting smoke or dropping a lot of oil on my garage floor, I think I'm OK to just top it off every now and then. And by then, it may just be time to hang up my keys.
 
Just go drive it, Cardboard under the car is cheap. Got to remember, these were originally tractor engines and we use 20W50 Oil. Clearances were set up a lot looser then. If you can get more that 1,000 miles between adding a q1uart of oil on a 55 Y.O. engine you are doing good. Leave it alone, the Self Lubricating Chassis Feature to prevent rust, depends on a small release of oil via the rear seal on a normal basis..
 
Jim is exaggerating about the tractor part. The A-Series engine was designed for cars and originally installed in the Austin A30, and subsequently installed in a bazillion other cars. A diesel variant was created for tractor and marine use.
 
Well... I have now been able to check the oil consumption with some precision and find that I am probably losing a quart every 500 miles. That is excessive and means that some major engine work is in my future.

The oil pressure remains very good, there is no smoke, and dripping in my garage is minimal (but probably leaking out on the road). I don't drive the car that much, so I'll just keep topping it off for a season or two before biting the engine rebuild bullet.


One thought that I have had, however, relates to a somewhat similar situation I had with my 58 TR3. When I filled the engine oil up to the FULL line, I invariably lost oil. But when the level dropped down to about 2/3 of the way up to "Full," the loss fell off dramatically. I wonder if filling the engine to "full" -- or nearly "full"-- creates pressure that increases the loss through the rear seal. Just a thought. Does this stike a bell with anyone?
 
Ed,
My MGB is the same, but once it get 1/2 down on the dipstick, no more oil usage. I tried a few different dipsticks from 18V engines and they varied quite a bit...mine had the highest level.
Rut
 
LexTR3 said:
Well... I have now been able to check the oil consumption with some precision and find that I am probably losing a quart every 500 miles. That is excessive and means that some major engine work is in my future.

The oil pressure remains very good, there is no smoke, and dripping in my garage is minimal (but probably leaking out on the road). I don't drive the car that much, so I'll just keep topping it off for a season or two before biting the engine rebuild bullet.


One thought that I have had, however, relates to a somewhat similar situation I had with my 58 TR3. When I filled the engine oil up to the FULL line, I invariably lost oil. But when the level dropped down to about 2/3 of the way up to "Full," the loss fell off dramatically. I wonder if filling the engine to "full" -- or nearly "full"-- creates pressure that increases the loss through the rear seal. Just a thought. Does this stike a bell with anyone?
Click to expand...

Since it's not smoking, on either accleration (rings) or deceleration, (valve guides) but the oil pressure is good, have a look under the car and see if it's oil coated. My best GUESS is that its the rear scroll seal. It only drips out when parked, but the pushed out when running. (?)
 
And if indeed it is coming out the rear seal. Check Gerard's Garage Web Site. He makes the only Rear Scroll Seal that actually works. NFI.
 
Well, if you have the original 948 you may look at oil consumption as an opportunity to switch to a 1275.

Kurt.
 
All of your good responses are very helpful. Many warm thanks.

Rut: I am especially encouraged by your posting. By accident, I found the same to be true of my 58 TR3. Once the level fell from "full," the leaking diminished considerably. I happened on this merely by chance. You know what they say about a blind pig: Even a blind pig finds an acorn now and then! I will let the level fall to about 1/2 and then start measuring ... and hope that tihs is the answer. Otherwise, it's back to topping off and hoping for the best.

Bill: Thanks for the information about the rear seal. The car leaks very little when parked, but it is losing oil, so it must be leaking when running.

Jim: I am at the mercy of professional mechanics because I cannot replace the seal myself: no tools, no knowledge, little skill

Kurt: I am running an original, unmodified and never rebuilt 948 engine. The same owner had it for over 30 years and took pretty good care of it. I hope to keep this engine until I finally part with the car, in about 7 years, when I'll probably be too old to drive this car.

My mechanic has said that $9 a quart every 400 or so miles is much less than an engine rebuild, so I should continue topping it off for the time being, at least until I experience a large puddle of oil when it is parked.

Once again, many warm thanks. Much appreciated.

Ed
 
Just an update on my leaking Bugeye situation ... and a question.

Tried a nyumber of fixes to the leaking, but to no avail. Now leaking about 20 ozs. per 100 miles!

It appears that the front and rear seals are leaking and that the engine will have to be pulled to replace the seals. I can have that done. However, turns out that the machine shop that does this work has closed for a couple of months. As a result, my mechanic recommends that I continue topping off the engine until the work can be done.

I'm OK with that, but I am also thinking of adding some Lucas Engine Oil Stop to see it it slows down the leak(s). I know people are divided on the use of Stop Leak, but I wonder what people on this forum think about it. I wouldn't intend it as a permanent fix... just tmporary until the engine work can be done.

Your advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
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