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BE Hood Tilt Kit
- Thread starter ralph_s
- Start date
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cdsmith
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Thanks for the picture... I think that's the same clamp one I was planing to order...
In response to limiting straps - I use two cables attached to where the rubber bumpers are on the fender, and the the other end to the same mounting place as original support rods on the hood. So far so good.
cd
In response to limiting straps - I use two cables attached to where the rubber bumpers are on the fender, and the the other end to the same mounting place as original support rods on the hood. So far so good.
cd
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
CD,
I found I really don't need the limit straps with the stop built in to the hinge. I did find that you can't attach just one stop both need to be on there or a twisting motion can bend the bolt holding on the end of the limit strap. Again that is just a 1/4 20 bolt turned backwards in my installation and there is a lot of sideways torque on that bolt. This really is a simple design and I like the way it works. As I'd doing some rework of the bonnet I took the latches off for painting/bondo.weld up the old trial and error from previous latches I broke. The #6 screws I'm replacing with new as again the were a little bit torqued.
My bonnet had sat for 10-15 years in a garage and it appears someone had laid things on top of the bonnet and it pulled the curve out of it. After two years of being clamped down the curve is gradually returning.
I found I really don't need the limit straps with the stop built in to the hinge. I did find that you can't attach just one stop both need to be on there or a twisting motion can bend the bolt holding on the end of the limit strap. Again that is just a 1/4 20 bolt turned backwards in my installation and there is a lot of sideways torque on that bolt. This really is a simple design and I like the way it works. As I'd doing some rework of the bonnet I took the latches off for painting/bondo.weld up the old trial and error from previous latches I broke. The #6 screws I'm replacing with new as again the were a little bit torqued.
My bonnet had sat for 10-15 years in a garage and it appears someone had laid things on top of the bonnet and it pulled the curve out of it. After two years of being clamped down the curve is gradually returning.
Newbie on the forum here. I've been slowing restoring my Bugeye for years, and would really like to change the hood to a front tilt. The pictures are great! Rust doesn't bother us too much in the desert.
Can someone direct me to the Gerald's Garage website so I can download the blueprint/diagrams ?
Thanks -
Richard
Can someone direct me to the Gerald's Garage website so I can download the blueprint/diagrams ?
Thanks -
Richard
cdsmith
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
I probably have them on another computer. Send me a message Monday if no one else comes up with them.
Just got mine on today, I used the hole spacing from Gerald's Garage but wanted mine less bulky. I have an early car and the hole spacing on the bonnet is 1 3/4"
not the 1 5/8" of most of the kits. I used aluminum plate and a 1" solid bar for the spacer, I didn't cut the bumper bosses off the frame horn or make any of the holes on the car bigger, I did slot the bracket and the spacer for lots of adjustment, I might make a stainless washer to cover the slots. I think I'm going to use a cable as a
stop
not the 1 5/8" of most of the kits. I used aluminum plate and a 1" solid bar for the spacer, I didn't cut the bumper bosses off the frame horn or make any of the holes on the car bigger, I did slot the bracket and the spacer for lots of adjustment, I might make a stainless washer to cover the slots. I think I'm going to use a cable as a
stop David_Doan
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Bob,
I just finished mine tonight. Homemade hinges similar to yours (more details in my blog). Tonight, I added the Gas Struts as stops. They are temporarily mounted, waiting on the hardware (10 mm ball studs) to finish. they are not stout enough to allow a "free-fall" close, but they do help. Most importantly, they hold the bonnet open. Here's a couple quick pics from my phone, I'll shoot better pics when I'm done.
I just finished mine tonight. Homemade hinges similar to yours (more details in my blog). Tonight, I added the Gas Struts as stops. They are temporarily mounted, waiting on the hardware (10 mm ball studs) to finish. they are not stout enough to allow a "free-fall" close, but they do help. Most importantly, they hold the bonnet open. Here's a couple quick pics from my phone, I'll shoot better pics when I'm done.
Last edited:
racingenglishcars
Darth Vader
Offline
Nice thread
I did a couple from Gerrards site. The bonnet is fibreglass but structure is steel from the original bonnet. The hinge material is 6mm aluminium plate and oak as a spacer (for now at least). I spaced it out from the frame with a washer and used countersunk bolts in the rear so I didn't have to cut the rear bumper mount.
I used Spitfire latches but was concerned about the strength of mounting so I welded a couple extra support holes and lengthened the bottom so there was no more free opening.
I did a couple from Gerrards site. The bonnet is fibreglass but structure is steel from the original bonnet. The hinge material is 6mm aluminium plate and oak as a spacer (for now at least). I spaced it out from the frame with a washer and used countersunk bolts in the rear so I didn't have to cut the rear bumper mount.
I used Spitfire latches but was concerned about the strength of mounting so I welded a couple extra support holes and lengthened the bottom so there was no more free opening.
