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TR6 Battery charge loss

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EWD

EWD

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Re: ‘74 TR6
Have a new battery and have a disconnect on the negative post. When the battery is disconnect, the charge holds. When it is connected, there is a charge loss to zero over a few days. Thought it might be one of the leads (direct to the battery) for a new Retro Radio (to keep memory, but the drain is very slight. Disconnected the lead to verify, and the battery still loss charge.
When you connect the battery, there is a loud click in the right front under the carbon canister, which I assume is the anti run on activating. Could this be the problem?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Will
 
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Why not try disconnecting the leads on the relay to the carbon canister?
That would confirm whether or not that is what's causing the battery drain.
 
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Gliderman8 said:
Why not try disconnecting the leads on the relay to the carbon canister?
That would confirm whether or not that is what's causing the battery drain.
Click to expand...
Yep. That’s next on the list. If it is the anti run on valve, not sure of how to solve. Have rebuilt the canister but the valve (at least at Moss) is listed as n/a.
Thx for your quick reply.
 
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EWD said:
Yep. That’s next on the list. If it is the anti run on valve, not sure of how to solve. Have rebuilt the canister but the valve (at least at Moss) is listed as n/a.
Thx for your quick reply.
Click to expand...
I have mine disconnected.
 
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Disconnecting might be the best solution if this is the problem. What is involved beyond simply disconnecting the wires? Will this present any problems?
Thx,
Will
 
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I just disconnected the wires and haven’t had a problem. Occasionally I get some run on but not too often.
 
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When I worked in a Pontiac dealer a few decades ago we would put a multimeter set to 10 amps between the battery and + cable. Any draw would show right up and you could disconnect things 1 at a time until it went away. Doesn't work as well on modern cars but should work great for you.
Larry
 
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More common to use the ohm,resistance setting.The battery doesnt even have to be connected.
One meter lead connected to the end of suspect wire and the other to ground.
Any reading and you will have current flow when connected.
Tom
 
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I had an old battery charger with an ammeter on it and if the car had a suspected short or draw it would short out the gauge on the charger. What I did was hook up the charger to the battery just for a moment to see and even hear the draw/short and then pull the fuses and replace the fuses one at a time until I found the circuit with the draw because I had no specific suspected circuit to check.

steve
 
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Steve,
It's been a long time but I think we used a standard multimeter with a fused 10A setting connected between the + terminal and the + cable. Any draw would show right up. If it was around half an amp we knew to go look for a glove box light or trunk light on. A 194 bulb would pull about 1/2 amp. We would also look for shorts with a 12V test light hooked up the same way. If the light was on something was shorted and providing a path to ground. Started moving things around while watching the test light. I am doing the wiring on my TR4 right now. I will have to test out some of these old tricks and see if I am remembering correctly.
Larry
 
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Yes, that's the idea. Disconnect the battery and connect an ammeter in series with the battery connection (i.e., one lead to the battery and the other to the cable). You will confirm that you have a drain. Then disconnect electrical items and fuses, one by one, until the current disappears, and then you will have isolated the problem.
 
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Afternoon folks,
Ok, I found the drain and its the anti run-on valve. A steady 1 amp draw. It closes when the battery is cut on ( you can hear the click) and it stays closed instead of opening when the oil pressure drops to 0. I installed a new oil pressure switch (Moss) to no avail. Will be rechecking the connections. Something is preventing the valve release.
So, if I go with the plan of disconnecting the wires, should I leave the valve as it is (which means it will run open) or plug either the bottom of the valve or the side of the canister where the hose connects to the valve?
I run high test gas and have had no problems.
Thanks,
Will
 
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I assume there is an oil-pressure switch that opens and closes the anti-run-on valve. Since you hear the valve opening and closing, it's not stuck, and the problem has to be the switch. Disconnect the wires from it and check it with an ohmmeter--I'll bet you'll find that switch closed when it should be open.
 
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Thx Steve.
Basic terminology definition question please:
When the ARV is ”open” it vents through the bottom, right? When I connect the battery, there is an audible click and the valve “”closes” or moves up.
If this is correct, my ARV is staying energized and thus my battery drain. I have a new switch and will be testing the wiring shortly.
So, if I cannot find the problem or if I decide to disconnect the wiring to the valve; is it best to leave the valve in place (“open”) or to plug the hose or canister and effectively “close” the system?
Car runs ok with it “closed” except when at idle when it warms up. It then dies unless I rich it up with the choke. Perhaps the ARV is part of the problem.
Heating up the garage now.
Thanks,
Will
 
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Sorry, I may have had it backwards. The point is, if you hear it operating, it's not getting stuck or anything like that. The problem has to be electrical, the switch that operates it.

You can tell I'm a TR4 guy, not a TR6 one! We don't have them there fancy-dancy anti-run-on valves; we just let the engine diesel away happily and stall it with the clutch.
 
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