• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 Battery charge loss

Share this page

OP
EWD

EWD

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
Re: ‘74 TR6
Have a new battery and have a disconnect on the negative post. When the battery is disconnect, the charge holds. When it is connected, there is a charge loss to zero over a few days. Thought it might be one of the leads (direct to the battery) for a new Retro Radio (to keep memory, but the drain is very slight. Disconnected the lead to verify, and the battery still loss charge.
When you connect the battery, there is a loud click in the right front under the carbon canister, which I assume is the anti run on activating. Could this be the problem?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Will
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
EWD said:
Elliot -
When you disconnected the wires to the ARV, did you plug the canister line to the valve?
Thx,
Will
Click to expand...
It’s been a couple of years, but I don’t believe I did.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
If you want to check the ARV operation, the ignition key will send power thru the Brown/Red (N/R) wire when the ignition key is in the OFF position...that's normal, but the ground (White/Purple/ W/P) should not be completed unless the Oil Pressure sensor switch detects some residual oil pressure.
If you hear a click from the ARV shortly after you kill the engine, the ARV is working as designed...what you hear is the ARV solenoid closing the path (i.e. valve) at the ARV from hose on the intake manifold's banjo fitting.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Gliderman8 said:
It’s been a couple of years, but I don’t believe I did.
Click to expand...
If you want to maintain the " basic function" of the carbon canister there needs to be an opening at its bottom for fresh air to enter and do the purging of the carbon layer...so if an ARV is disabled you can either leave the interconnecting hose in place, so the fresh air can pass thru the disabled ARV or you can remove the interconnecting hose so air can directly enter the CC like the pre-73 versions.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Just curious. In my situation, by disconnecting the wires, the valve stays open, and it vents through the bottom of the valve. (Who knows, maybe this will help my hot idle problem).
Still checking the wiring to my new oil switch, but headed toward the disconnect solution.
Thx again.
Will
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
The wires on the switch:
ARV OP switch.jpg
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Back
Top