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TR6 Bad Luck?

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More work, eh? OK. What is this bolt on the manifold end of the rear carb? Is something supposed to go there?
 

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There is a threaded hole there for a vacuum nipple...on the rear carb it would have been the location for the nipple that supplied vacuum to activate an EGR valve screwed into the cylinder head.
MAY-JUNE EBAY 002.JPG
 
Two more questions. 1. Do I have to replace the float bowl gasket if it looks ok? 2. Although the flexible fuel lines to the carbs look ok, should I replace them and with what? Is clear neoprene OK?
 
Got carb off and on bench. Float bowl had only 3 bolts holding it in plus threaded plug. Had to use a pipe wrench to get plug off. Float looked fine. Unscrewed needle valve and metal washer. It did not seem stuck but moved freely but only about 1/10 of an inch or so. At one point, a fiber washer fell out of somewhere. Slightly larger than the needle valve washer. Doesn't seem to show in Moss catalog. Where might it go? I'll put the valve back in, squirt some penetrating oil in and see if it comes through the valve. After that?
 
Paul - a couple of follow-ups -

Did you try changing the coil and/or the condenser?

Is the fuel pump reliable and pumping as normal? (the symptoms you originally described sure sound like fuel starvation, if not electrical problems.)
 
Electrical parts all normal. Good spark at all 6 plug cables and front 3 cylinders running perfectly.
Fuel pump is working normally with good fuel pressure at flex line to rear carb (last stop for fuel).
Plan A is to reinstall carb, start it up and see if the problem is solved. Biggest problem is going to be re-attaching the carb - getting the 4 nuts started on the manifold studs. In any case, this carb will have to be rebuilt or replaced since there are 3 missing float bowl screws (and I have no matches in my lifetime collection of screws, nuts and bolts) and the O-ring on the brass plug is chewed up and will no doubt leak when fuel enters the chamber. The float bowl had absolutely no gunk or residue in it and the float level appeared to be ok though I did not measure it - just checked to see that the needle valve was opening and closing in its limited travel. I don't understand how they got the needle inside the valve since the housing looks to be one piece.
 
Could the choke be stuck on the back carb--or bad floats so not shutting off the fuel flow, sound like the three that aren't working are running rich, not lean.
 
Needle valve replaced and 3 missing screws attached. New o ring on bottom plug to replace rotted one. I got it from local Ace Hardware store. Valve had intermittent sticking problem, hard to spot. Fuel lines ok. Carb replaced, engine started and....all six cylinders roared into life, and the mighty TR6 was back in action. Thanks for your suggestions.
 
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