• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR4/4A Back to the Oil Canister Housing

Share this page

KVH

KVH

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I'm still trying to remove mine. I removed the three bolts and oil line. But it's still fused like it's welded. Do I need to remove the pressure valve or any other component, or do just need to muscle this thing off?
 
If at first you don't succeed ... Get a bigger hammer !

My guess is it's not welded, just Permatex (which is almost as bad).
 
Hmm, I guess I'd forgotten that AZ doesn't follow daylight savings time. It's midnight here too, because we do.
 
Randall, I guess I better ask: The stud stays in correct? I don't remove that?


That housing is really on there tight. I'll have to try again after a few deep breaths.

thx
 
Normally, you shouldn't need to remove the stud. But since you're having such a hard time with the housing, it couldn't hurt to remove the stud if you can. With the stud out of the way, I might try resting a length of 2x4 against the edge of the housing and whacking it with a BFH. I think that would be less likely to damage it than prying on it.
 
The aluminum housing is flat, flush against the block, right? No shoulder fittings into the block? Also, when I get this thing off and reseal, do you recommend Hylomar or Permatex High Tack?

I finally got a putty knife into a 1/2 inch area, so I have hope. When I'm all done my tiny leak better be smaller. This was probably a job not needed, but once I start I can't stop.
 
Yup, both surfaces are machined flat, no steps or shoulders.

I'd use Hylomar, but I can't really say it would be any better than High Tack except for coming off easier next time.
 
I've half a mind to call you and see if you are still up.

Once off (and removing the stud and whacking it using a length of wood sounds promising) I would, at most, use sealant on the filter head side of the gasket - then Hylomar on the other. If you go that route you might let the strong sealant set-up with the thing resting on a sheet of glass to assure a flat surface.
 
TR3driver said:
I'd use Hylomar, but I can't really say it would be any better than High Tack except for coming off easier next time.
Click to expand...

I got it off, actually a few whacks with a rubber hammer, and then using some adhesive remover and letting it soak overnight. That seemed to help, especially when I got a putty knife in there. It was so perfect and square and clean, that I question my decision to remove it in the first place, as my gut now tells me the oil was leaking from the pan, not the canister housing.

Anyway, I'm still having fun. It took hours to get all the gasket and fried-on Permatex off the housing and block. Finally, clean is clean enough, and I'm using High Tack to put it back on. I'd use Hylomar, except my tube is about empty, and I won't be removing this again in my lifetime.
 
KVH said:
and I won't be removing this again in my lifetime.
Click to expand...
Famous last words ?

Remember, Murphy was an optimist !
 
Back
Top