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ARP Studs

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DNK said:
Why do I have this feeling ya can't get 620 at your local NAPA
Click to expand...
Could be, but I think that's where I got my bottle of 609. Might be worth at least giving them a call.

Looks like R.S. Hughes is a Loctite distributor and has an office in Seattle. They probably have it.

If not, MMC has it; so does Amazon. Or call around for tool or industrial supply houses in your area.
 
And don't forget 1/4-24. I use that all the time.
 
So you're a couple hours south of me?!?! Weather has turned to "wonderful" in the last few days. Good timing!
 
Well, progress report.
Received the threaded inserts and tap on Mon. Ran the tap thru the hole and low and behold...
There does not seem to be enough thread for my visual eye for me to be comfortable installing the inserts. Back to plan A. Unfortunately I sent back all the original stuff to McMasters last week. Now I have to reorder it again. Dang

While running the tap into it I got a chance to study the amount of meat left. The hole is drilled to 17/32 and I have to drill more to 37/34th for the thick wall inserts. The wall thickness still measures .225. I think I am OK still.
Am I ?
 
You will be down to around .200 wall thickness at the end.

I assume that the picture above with the taped block is what you are working on. The thin area is around 25 percent of the circumfrence of the hole.

My gut? you'll be ok but you'll only have one shot at it.
 
the new heads are on and Torqued to the proper steps. Yea
I ended up using the thick wall threaded sets.


Anybody want a set of barely used ARP studs for an early Rover V8?



Now, How do you keep the motor from turning over while I torque the cam retention bolt on???
 
Pull #1 plug, jam a screw driver in the hole, turn the crank until tyhe piston jambs against the screw driver, torque the nut.









This is joke, don't ya know. Couldn't resist.

Jim
 
Actually that might almost work. The #1 is @ TDC with the plugs out . So I jamb some rope into the piston that is going up next!!!!

It's only torqued to 40 lbs.
 
Make sure you leave enough rope hanging out of the plug hole so that you can extract the rope when done.
 
RonMacPherson said:
Make sure you leave enough rope hanging out of the plug hole so that you can extract the rope when done.
Click to expand...

Boy would I feel stupid :jester:

What size rope?
 
I always used a nice soft peice of clothesline.
 
Soft and clothesline ,kind of like Army Intelligence. A real opposite.
 
I dunno, around here we use it for the bell on the locomotive. Some braided stuff. by it by the 100 yard roll. flexible and soft.

PS, the smaller the diameter, the more you will need. The stuff I am thinking of is between 1/4 and 3/8's in diameter.
 
Well, pulled the gear and hardware off. I just wasn't happy with the way the lies and circles lined uo on the gears.
Better now. Put it back together and slid the crank pulley on and was able to hold that tight enough to torque to specks.
Thanks for the ideas. Now on the putting the front cover on so I can jack the motor up enough to pull that nasty power rack off.
And at the same time start to reassemble the top side.

DSCF4228.jpg
 
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