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ARP Studs

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DNK

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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So I received the ARP studs from the vendor. Installed them and they don't include the <span style="font-size: 20pt">RECOMMENDED </span>lube with it.
What the heck is that about. Some they do and some they don't. I don't care if it cost $2 more include the <span style="font-size: 20pt">FRICKIN</span> lube with it!!!!
 
Mine came a with a small lube packet that looked like a ketchup packet from McDs. Instructions state torque with their lube or with 30w oil (your choice). If yours is missing use oil instead.
 
It's not that it is missing. It IS NOT suppose to be shipped with it and if you want it, which they recommend, you have to pay extra.
 
It came with my rod bolts and also with my head studs. Thought it was supposed to come with it. My bad.
 
So did I until I called and questioned!!!!!!!!!
now I think I striped out the front passenger hole on the block
 
DNK said:
So did I until I called and questioned!!!!!!!!!
now I think I striped out the front passenger hole on the block
Click to expand...

Naw, just run a bottoming tap down there and make sure you vacuum it out real good with some oil to loosen the filings.
 
DNK said:
So did I until I called and questioned!!!!!!!!!
now I think I striped out the front passenger hole on the block
Click to expand...

Before you do what Bill says count to 10 slowly,
 
Bill , This is my Wedge and the block is aluminium
 
Ugh, Good thing you're not doing it on Sunday, it's gonna take some cussing 'for it's all over.

Can you fit a helicoil tap down the hole without taking off the head?

This doesn't sound good at all.

Are there any threads left at the bottom? longer bolt?
 
Haven't pulled the head off to look at it yet.
 
Now, now, count to ten slowly, take several deep breaths and relax a bit.

A lot of chemicals that used to be shipped with hard parts have been deleted from shipments anymore thanks to big brother and their passage of restrictive regulations in the purpose of furthering "national security"..

So please don't automatically assume it's ARP's chintziness in not shipping the chemical.

There are some things I used to get mailed over here in Hawaii, now have to come over by boat, because of the regs...
 
Woody's shop says they get it in theirs.
And by the way, I did strip the hole and maybe another.
 
DNK said:
Bill , This is my Wedge and the block is aluminium
Click to expand...


Aieeeeee! Nightmare visions of repairing my trailing arm studs!

Dumb question but, how is some magic lubricant supposed to prevent one from stripping soft aluminum with hardened fine-thread studs?
 
I was wondering the same. The Bentley book for the bolts is 70lbs. and the ARP studs is 80lbs. That sounds like a lot going into aluminum!
Just talked to Bobby about the keen serts and will give it a try.
Maybe I should do em all?
 
I have been wondering about the correctness of my torque wrench. When I was tightening the nuts It was all I could do to reef on them. At 80* should not have been that hard.
I guess it's time for a new one.
I read on past threads it should not be left at a high number. I didn't know that and for years it probably sat at 50 -100 lbs.
 
RonMacPherson said:
A lot of chemicals that used to be shipped with hard parts have been deleted from shipments anymore thanks to big brother and their passage of restrictive regulations in the purpose of furthering "national security"..

So please don't automatically assume it's ARP's chintziness in not shipping the chemical.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... ARP offers and sells lube seperately, but they do not include the lube sachet with the studs? That seems fishy to me.

I just checked, and there's a packet in my head studs.
 
Don...........somewhere in the back of my brain is reading about how using lubes or thread locking stuff actually changes the torque value. Here's one thread I found on it even if it is for Triumph motorcycles. Here's a pretty good table showing the impact.

What's confusing is that a "wet/lubed" bolt should have a lower torque value but in your case they said to go with a higher torque setting.
 
Yup. If you poke around on ARP's site, they at least used to have an extensive discussion of why torque readings are inherently inaccurate, and lubrication is one of the variables mentioned. As I recall, they also talk about consistency being the main advantage of using their lube instead of what's in the pucker can; and the need to burnish the threads before taking a torque reading.

Normally, the torque applied to a bolt or stud is limited by the strength of the bolt/stud itself, rather than what it's threaded into. I'm not sure which studs we are discussing here, but if it's something like trailing arm studs, I would stick with the factory recommendations as to lubrication and torque. Unless you've also taken steps to reinforce the hole, like Helicoils or Keenserts.

But I'm just a shadetree mechanic. If you really want to be sure you are improving the design, you should probably talk to a ME.
 
SO talked with Woody about this. He said if you don't have the ARP lube don't use oil as they recommend. With all the stuff removed from oil now days it just don't stay on the stud.He suggested cam lube and he said with my more or less stock compression on this motor just use the stock bolts. So I took his advice ,sort of. I bought a new torque wrench. pulled the side I hadn't messed with . Added cam lube to each and snugged them home with an allen tool. I then started torquing each to the ARP suggested method and value. When I started the third and last round they started to slip when I cranked on them an I could only get the first one to click the wrench. The second and third would not click. I thought I ain't going thru this again so I stopped and am taking a break. I think I will remove them and just use the stock bolts as Woody originally suggested. I am just too hard headed to follow directions sometimes.
Chalk it up as a bad investment and a lesson learned about aluminum blocks.

What do you think.
 
I am having a problem comprehending something here. Surely you are not torquing the head stud into the block at 80 ft/lbs. It's the nut that is supposed to be torqued onto the stud at 80ft/lbs. I'm not sure how tightly the studs are to be torqued.
 
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