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tonyk

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Finally got to fitting the rear wing, BJ8.

As per previous post I had to compromise lining up the swage line. It's good now but I needed to shave off the door bottom about 3mms to get the outer sill (rocker) to fit and enlarge the A pillar cover bolt holes to maximise adjustment range. Enlarged the door jamb holes as well to allow further adjustment as well as shaving a fraction from the lower hinge margins. What a palaver!

I don't know how I'm going to straighten out the bends on the upper margin of the horizontal alu trim piece without leaving residual marks and then rebend it. How is this done?

And:-

DSCF1081.jpg

Above is from the body parts list, plate C1 page BC3. Part 19 is shown as a threaded plate. I can't find one. Is this relevant to BJ8 as the book deals with both BJ7 and 8? What is it?

Cheers AJK
 
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tonyk said:
...

Above is from the body parts list, plate C1 page BC3. Part 19 is shown as a threaded plate. I can't find one. Is this relevant to BJ8 as the book deals with both BJ7 and 8? What is it?

Cheers AJK
Click to expand...

Probably applies to all big Healeys, as our BN2 has them. Whereas the rest of the wing is fitted with the (sort of) sheet metal screws and tinnerman-type nuts (parts 3-5), the very front of the wing at top is secured with the threaded plate and a bolt (note also parts#6-9, which is a regular bolt and nut). The plate acts like a large nut, sandwiching the flange of the wing against the frame (the other type of bolts/tinnermans secure the wing to the shroud). You could fab them yourself; IIRC the bolt is 1/4 inch by one inch, and the tapped hole is offset a bit from center. The plate itself is about one inch by 3 inches (sorry don't have exact measurements). I would fit them.
 
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I used bolt & nut with washers at all the fastening points on my rear fenders. Sometimes I would trim an oversized washer so that it fit up snuggly and flat unto the fender flange or inner body.
I believe your right that it will be very hard to straighten the aluminium piece without leaving residual marks. But if I were to do it I believe I would press it between flat pieces of wood. With patience after you get it flat, using decreasingly narrower pieces of wood strips right down to a few millimeters in width you may be able to reduce the distortion in the metal enough that it won't be too noticeable. Dave.
 
Are you referring to the aluminum cover panel for the outer rocker panel? If so, it can float, since the fuzzy seal clips to it and has no exact fit to the door panel. Send a photo of what you have going, please.
Bob
 
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