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Anyone every spray paint/primer with one of these?

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martx-5
good on you for getting the work done yourself. I'm a firm beleiver that you will do a better job on your classic car than a 'shop' will. A few years ago I thought I would get a small area of rust removed from my driver's door by a professional panelbeater. Big mistake. All they did was 'bog' up the hole and respray the door. Over time the door was continuing to rust away from the inside. I'm now doing the repares myself, and doing it properly.
I've got a good quality spray gun as well as an airbrush, so when I've finished some general repairs I will respray my car too. I don't have the courage to take a roller to it!
Regards
Craig
 
I've painted a car with a Wagner. It does an ok job. With the littler ones thinning the paint is crucial. The worse problem with them is the tendancy to spit globs of paint if it sucks air.
 
I just bought this;

2d_1.JPG


https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200071793567

After looking around I think it is a very good deal, basically a factory-outlet type deal. if you are looking, Apollo was very helpful and they have other outlet type deals up on eBay that come with a warranty.

I should have it in a couple of days and I'll report back on how it works.

Thanks for all of your feedback and ideas!
 
I've got the TPTOOLS Showtime90 HVLP turbine. It's a really nice unit for the home enthusiast. I had to buy a couple different tips for spraying primer and clearcoat which added to the cost. Paid around $800 for the whole package with all the needed accessories.

TPTOOLS makes great stuff and stand behind their products. I also have one of their blast cabinets
 
I am well into doing the roller method on my TR4. It won't be a show car (good, I want to drive it without fretting), but I am already at the "3 foot" quality level and I should be able to improve on that as I continue to learn the tricks of doing it.

I have the fenders and windshield frame off and in the basement; the hood, trunk lid and doors will follow. When spring arrives and I venture back out into the garage, I will tackle the exterior un-boltable panels.

The interesting thing is that we will accept a standard orange peel paint job on a new car (unless you can afford a high-end vehicle), but when you do it yourself it has to be better.

I found out about this method through a link from this site to a previous painting question.
 
I must have missed something. What is the 'roller method'?
 
Firstly, I am not going to get into any debates with the purists - the links I have attached have a lot of that while missing the point that this is a paint job on a budget for the average do it yourselfer (sp).

OK, I have to admit that I wasn't going to say anything until I either produced a paint job that I was happy with, or I rubbed it all down and snuck off to Maaco. However, I am relatively happy with the progress so far.

Advantages - cheap, no paint booth, no overspray, easy masking, work at your own pace and if you manage it - great bragging rights. As a lot of a TR4 unbolts, I am currently doing it in the basement.

Disadvantages - You won't produce a show car, although some people have had excellent results. Also you become very anal in your self critiquing even though you may be doing better than a mass produced modern car paint job.

So, I am doing a rolling resto as I don't have the time or the dollars for a frame off and especially for a professional paint job. I read the links below and procrastinated for months before finally just dumping some paint stripper onto a fender - now I was committed. I figured that the barn find had to be stripped right back to bare metal anyway to see what was really there. I am very happy so far as I have only found about 4 square inches of bondo and the rest is really solid. After grinding and the wire wheel, I am using Eastwood rust converter on all surfaces, inside surfaces then get Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

Now the paint. I am using Rustoleum Pro Safety Red after that. As you know, cars of that era didn't have the high gloss associated with Base Coat/Clear Coat finishes and from what I have seen so far the Rustoleum produces a similar enamel type finish to what I recall of the original.

The links below describe how to do it. Here is a summary:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rt=1&PHPSESSID=

but I recommend that you take a few evenings (I am not joking) to go through the whole thread.

Start here:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

then go here:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

then report back when you have read every post, there will be a test:smile:

I will see if any of my photos are good enough to be of any use. Taking a picture of a fender off the car and in the basement doesn't always work as well.
 
Re: Anyone every spray paint/primer with one of th

Here are 2 pics from the basement, I hope, but they don't do it justice.

One is taken between coats after rubbing down and the other is of both rear fenders at mid stage. I think that I need a couple more coats and then a final wet sand and buff.

I couldn't work out how to post these pics without editing the post then adding them. I am sure that I have missed the obvious.
 

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Re: Anyone every spray paint/primer with one of th

Check this link out concerning the roller method. The "Aussie Driver" used the Rustoleum first, but then decided to go with a marine paint called Brightside. Check out his results on page two of the thread. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif

I decided to use the roller method myself, using the marine stuff. If you can live with the limited color choices and don't want to clear coat (which none of these cars originally had), this method is just as good as spraying.
 
Re: Anyone every spray paint/primer with one of th

"Aussie Driver" has had excellent results using the Brightside.

I spent a lot of time trying to decide between the Rustoleum Pro and the Brightside. I even went to a boat place and quizzed them. I picked the Rustoleum as the Mopar guy from the threads that I previously posted said he had cars that he painted 7 years ago that still looked good today. I didn't find any long term reports on how Brightside was holding up over the years. I am also not sure about an old car having a very wet look paint job - personal preference there.

Frankly my measure of success will be if I can do a paint job that is better than what is on my GM Trailblazer. I think that is doable, but time will tell.

I will update you as I continue to learn the technique and hopefully improve.
 
Re: Anyone every spray paint/primer with one of th

You have to remember that millions of Model T Fords and other cars of the era were brush painted..then sanded and rubbed out by hand!

I've seen really nice paint jobs done with rattle cans! . Last year I attended a show where a guy had bought a wholesale lot of rattle cans and used this off-brand paint to re-do his car...it looked really nice and he had less than $50.00 in paint and materials!

It can be done...
 
Re: Anyone every spray paint/primer with one of th

The nice thing about the roller method is no overspray, no airborne paint mist complete with chemicals which is wasted because it doesn't even reach the car, no splatter from rattle cans, you can do a lot of the work in the basement on cold days due to minimal fumes (I still wear a cartridge mask just in case).
 
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