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Anti corrosion joint strip.

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J

John_Progess

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Moss shows a product for about $53. Is there something just as good for much less money? Thanks for your help and have a good day!

John
 
John,
I have a roll of Moss's product that I didn't use; my body shop used their own product. Happy to dig it out of my garage for 1/2 price.
 
John,

I assume you are talking about strips to go between the wings and shroud. I've wondered about the wisdom of adding something that can trap more water and dirt than adding nothing at all. Since the main concern is corrosion between steel and aluminum if you primer and paint all these surfaces, this will leave the joint surfaces better protected than from the factory (they left many metal surfaces not well painted)and you should not have any corrosion problems. And I guess you don't plan to leave it out in the snow and rain all year long, do you? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Cheers,
John
 
--I certainly agree with that John. Futher, this stuff complicates fitting of the wings.-Fwiw---Keoke
 
I'm sure we could argue at length about whether or not adding a barrier tape would be better or worse for the dissimilar metal corrosion problem. I'm sure it depends on the material, the care with which it is applied (no pockets or bubbles)and how and where you drive your car, not to mention where you live and how you store it. I think that electrical bonding of panels to each other so that you do not allow a potential difference to build is perhaps the most effective method. Likewise, a sacraficial corrosion material would be good, but that creates it own problems with the accumulation of corrosion products. On my restoration, I'm going with primer and paint, and not bothering with anything else except I'll be putting a little Corrosion X or other corrosion preventive oil based fluid in the joints onece or twice a year, and I might throw in one bonding wire on each panel, to be electrically bonded to the frame. Although, with all the screws and bolts through the various panels into the chassis parts you would think bonding would not be much of an issue, but we can all see that it remains a problem.

Jon
 
John & John:

Personally, where I doing my own car I WOULD use the correct stuff.

I have IN stock (UK Made :smile:) and it is $45 + Actual USPS.

Please contact direct @ ed@justbrite.com .

Ed
 
JamesWilson said:
So, then, do you advise leaving these strips off?

I've got them, but am no where near close to using them yet... and if they're more trouble than they're worth....
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HI JW, I think John pointed out the potential for problems trying to isolate the metal joints. I would use good paint coverage on the faying surfaces and not be too concerned with the isolation material. As a matter of fact the larger the area of the faying surfaces the less the total corrosion. This supports the case where you pull a really decrepit car apart and where do you find the worst corrosion areas? Its at the bolt hole locations.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
Does anyone know if these anti-corrosion strips were used when the cars were first put together or were they produced later as a 'fix' for corrosion problems that showed up? I don't recall seeing the strips in the parts book so thought I'd ask. Also, were there any other factory a-c strips used between other contact areas between alum. shroud and steel?

Thanks,
John
 
I can't seem to find anything in the Moss catalog that is used as protection between the wings and shroud. Can someone be more specific about these products. I am unaware of what the "correct stuff" is as mentioned by Ed above. I thought that the original assembly was with nothing special except the beading between the wings and shroud. Do not forget the large faying surface between the rear shroud and rear quarter panels. That is a fairly tight fit and I wouldn't try to put anything inbetween those surfaces for a variety of reasons. I have used 3M strip caulk in some places as a seal and to prevent squeaks and rattles.

Jon
 
Moss part number 858-205 page 119 in the 08- 2006 catalog. It's just listed on the page with the Outer body panels .. not illustrated.
 
Hi John,
My car came with what looked like caulking between the fender/ shroud on all four fenders. Happy Holidays (belated) by the way.
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I do not know if the factory used the anti corrosion material or not John. I doubt it as at that time in the UK sacrificial anodes [Zinc Blocks] and befuddled positive ground benefits were the thing of the day. However, if you look at the Piccy Greg just put up. In the areas of the "protective junk" you see severe corrosion. Contrastingly, all the way to the right hand edge of the picture where there is no junk it is clean as a whistle.---Keoke
 
what is the best way to get the corrosion out,wire wheel,chemicals?,I'm in the process of stripping paint off the shrouds the corrosion is the worst on the rear shroud towards the very rear on both sides.Also can anybody recommend a primer to use on these shrouds? thanks stinky
 
Hi Stinky60, your best bet is to use a wire brush and sand paper just prior to initiating the repaint process.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
stinky60 said:
Thanks, Keoke, I kinda thought that was the way to go,are you free next weekend, I sure could use your help? stinky
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PPG Automotive refinishing products offers a "conversion" solution for treating bare aluminum. It will clean any corrosion left in pits, etc. so the primer will have good adhesion.

The aluminum is easy to do; spray on the conversion solution and after so many minutes, you hose it off with water. A lot easier than doing the same process for steel, as the rust will form very quickly!

It also works very well (and what I use it the most for) to brighten up dull aluminum, as it removes surface oxidation.
 
"It removes surface oxidation" For a split second!--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
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