TR2/3/3A Another TR3 battery box replaced

[TexasKnucklehead]

Thank-you Keith and David for the previous threads regarding battery box replacement -I can't say how many times I read them. Apparently the battery box is welded to the 2 little backing plates and to the boxes on either side (bulk head assy) before the top of the scuttle is welded. Getting a cutting wheel under the scuttle to cut those edges loose is difficult.

I drilled all the spot welds including the two in front of the box, carefully cut away the corner welds (and upper lip), and was then able to extract the original and force a new box in. It goes home with a pop! I haven't welded it in yet, but it looks like progress.

There are three "T"s for wiring on my original box. 1 on the right side, 1 on the back and 1 on the bottom. I wouldn't put the one on the right side until after the box is in place. It is a tight fit already.

I noticed, on the new battery box, the angle brackets were welded with 2 spot welds, while the original has 3 smaller welds. Does it need welded better?

The scuttle area in the center near the vent, was slightly raised before taking the box out -you can see the greater separation there in my picture. Some of of it is probably due to prying, but not all of it. Is that normal? I'm thinking, if I weld in the proper sequence, that raised area my be straightened out because of the straight edge on the new box. I have been looking forward to battery box replacement with great consternation ever since I knew it had to be done. So far so good...

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Tex,
Great Job. I would say that when you clamp that center part over the top of the box to weld it you will be ok. You definately have more of a gap right now then I have.

One more little job checked off the list. More pics when you weld it in please. Oh, I did check my little brackets on the back of the box. I tried to break them off with my hands and they seem to be pretty sturdy. Of yours don't seem to be the same (as others have found) I would throw a few extra tack welds on them just to be on the same side.

Cheers,
David

 

[mallard]

I would trial fit the bonnet to see how the fit is in the scuttle area before any welding is done. The brackets on mine were ready to fall off so I made that repair. Remember to drill the two holes for the OD relay if you have one. Make sure you countersink them as well. The install looks great, well done. Mine also snapped into place. I don't see any drain hole in your pictures.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Good idea on the bonnet fitting Keith. Thanks for mentioning that.

Cheers,
David

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Right, I have to drag it down out of the attic, but it might be worth it. I seem to remember it hanging at the center. I'm using the 5-speed, so no OD. Before I snapped it into place, I used a hammer and dolly to re-flatten the areas where I popped the drilled welds -made sure the mating surface was nice and flat.

Some of the welds didn't require me to drill entirely through the tub sheet metal. (The weld broke as I just scratched the surface of the 2nd metal.) Would it be easier to weld from under if all the holes were drilled?

The drain hole is there.

 

[mallard]

I welded all of mine from the bottom. The only hard ones were at the top. It's kind of tight, and you can't see what your doing. Doing it from the bottom you can't see any weld marks on the battery box. If yours is like mine you will have to weld where the box starts up bulkhead. Or you could just fill it with seam sealer. It does look like the metal is distorted (bent up) in front of the scuttle.

Make sure you remove the reading material before you start welding.

One last thing, now would be a good time to repair that drain tube from the scutttle, it looks rusted.