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Another stupid question

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Rob,

I disagree, there are much easier ways to take care of that problem. I think if you install a impedance stabilizer then your golden. Think about it, if your smooth out the impedance waves then the erratic fluctuation that you talk about never happens. This is just electricity 101.

I got mine at Laner Electrical Supply (https://www.laner.com) for $6.95. It's just good insurance.
 
LastDeadLast said:
Rob,

I disagree, there are much easier ways to take care of that problem. I think if you install a impedance stabilizer then your golden. Think about it, if your smooth out the impedance waves then the erratic fluctuation that you talk about never happens. This is just electricity 101.

I got mine at Laner Electrical Supply (https://www.laner.com) for $6.95. It's just good insurance.
Click to expand...

True - but I've heard those things can cause your paintwork to dull more quickly, and possibly they interfere with cell phone reception. Best to stick with the tried and true method IMHO.

Rob.
 
[/quote]
Dale,
I hope you then bleed the system using the battery drain. If you get an air lock in those cables you may find you have intermitent electrical failure!
Nick[/quote]

Hey Nick,

I purchased an 850 cold cranking amp battery to replace DPO
Pedro's 150 amp K-Mart special. It does not drain that I
know of. I DO replace the battery cables every two months
due to excessive electron buildup and positron plaque
deposits within the copper matrix lattice of the individual
copper wires of the the two cables.

Of course I carry a spare 12v battery in my trunk.
Doesn't everyone carry one for emergencies?

d
 
LastDeadLast said:
I think you're OK not to do all this. If your electrical system isn't melting your fine.
Click to expand...
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
 
Dale, the paranoia genie needs to be put back in the bottle.

My 6 sits down below, battery hooked up. I was in the routine of starting it rarely over the last year, perhaps only once every 3 months. Good Costco battery fires it up no problem. Takes a few pumps on the throttle and four or five more seconds cranking to refill the carburetors(sidedraft Webers).

On a non electronic 6(you've removed your pertronix) there are only several places that the electricity will drain off.

No clock, No radio(with memory); The only other place would be if your alternator goes sour. Otherwise the cca of the battery would last for at least a month on your 6. If it doesn't then you DO have a drain.

Way to tell if you've got a drain, is unhook either one of the battery cables, hook up your dvom, set to volts. positive lead on the battery or cable, negative lead on the other(battery post or cable, whichever you've disconnect, red terminal of dvom to battery post, black terminal lead of dvom to battery cable. Then key removed from the ignition, lights off, see what your voltage reading is, and get back to us. We'll advise you on what, if any steps are needed.
 
Ol Yeller sits in the garage all winter and stays hooked up. Last spring I went out and pumped the gas pedal, choked it and cranked it up. VVrrrrrrrooooooooommm. I hope to do the same next spring, but who knows, maybe Crypty will find me.
 
Dale,

Follow Ron's advice. You'll learn from this and it will help you diagnose and correct any of the issues, if they exist.
 
what on earth is a dvom?

The car has no radio or clock and I removed DPO Pedro's cigarette lighter from where he took out the dash Rheo.

thanks- both of us sick as dogs. Wendy with the flu,
me with a head cold.

d
 
Dale - a stupid question of my own ...

What makes you think you have a voltage leak?

Thanks.
Tom
PS - dvom = digital volt ohm meter
 
Dale: not a good idea to have 2 battery isolation switches. Why? Any additional resistance in the circuit will work against you. I had one of these switches on the positive terminal of the 250 battery until this year when I realized just how crappy it was made. The resistance across the switch was not only too high, it also varied. How tight is tight enough? So,at times I had plenty of voltage at the starter and other times it seemed like the battery was low. The problem was the switch. Almost everything that's sold for these carstoday is crap from India or China.
 
Tom,
I don't think he thinks he has a voltage leak. He just asked why he has to disconnect the battery. Now I don't think he knows what he has got apart from possibly an air lock, some electricity 101 and two isolator switches. I think he is lacking a dvom and some cold remedy!
Nick
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] What makes you think you have a voltage leak?
[/QUOTE]

Tom,

If he had a voltage leak it would be all over the floor, just like the gasoline on the fuel line replacement project. And so far, Dale hasn't said that he was shocked walking in and out of the garage, so he must not have a leak.
 
Paul - you just never know ... maybe he's out taking a leak right now.

(sorry - couldn't resist ...)
 
Tinster said:
what on earth is a dvom?
Click to expand...
Digital Volt-Ohm Meter. Also known as a digital multimeter or DMM. And then lots of people call them DVM (for digital volt meter). Hopefully the same thing as the "magic electrical box" you recently learned to use (although possibly with a digital display rather than a needle on a scale).

Hopefully it's clear to you that most of the posts in this thread are tongue-in-cheek. There should be no reason you have to disconnect the battery when storing the car; and IMO if there is one, you should find the problem and fix it. The only exception to that is if you've installed a CD player or similar that uses battery power to maintain it's clock and settings. Some of them do consume enough power to be a problem for a battery that won't be charged for many months.
 
I think dale is having a little fun with us. I don't remember any photo of 2 battery isolators.
 
Yup, I do have 2 battery terminal disconnects.

And just by dumb luck I actaully DID discover the electical
leak that started the two fires with my braided stainless steel fuel lines.

While trying to isolate my turn signal problem, I was
working near the Power Block beside the positive battery
terminal. I bumped the connected disconnect and it rotated
forward and touched the horizonatl steel bar that holds the
top edge of the battery.

Current shot thru the bar, down the steel hold downs, into
the firewall/battery deck, into the engine block and bit my hand pretty good resting upon the chrome valve cover.

Now I know why my coil was leaking electric.

d


chassis
 
Dale,

Glad to hear that you found the leak. Now get rid of one of those stupid disconnects, preferably, the one near the battery bar before someone (you) gets hurt.

That voltage surge may very well have led to the early demise of your Pertronix ignition module.
 
Show us a picture of how not to set them up. I have a disconnect that I haven't put on yet. I don't want my fuel lines to catch on fire either.
 
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